Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
you'll notice a historical marker in the shape of King Kamehameha and another sign point-
ing toward Kaunolu. Make a right down this road, and travel by vehicle as far as you feel
comfortable. It's three miles from here to the shoreline, and although the first mile is inno-
cent enough, the last two can be steep and heavily eroded.
Once at the bottom of the road you'll reach a Y-junction. The road to the left leads to
a set of fishing shacks used by locals who come down here to drink beer and fish, often
in that order. The shacks are rudimentary and nice enough, and there even is an outhouse
which has been constructed recently. By turning right at the Y, however, you are instantly
transported into what is one of Lana'i's most storied places.
The dirt road abruptly comes to an end at a wooden picnic table set serenely beneath a
tree. This picnic table marks the entrance to historical Kaunolu. One of the first sensations
you'll have is of total emptiness. Save for the rustle of the breeze and crash of the waves,
Kaunolu is completely silent.
For nearly 400 years, however, Kaunolu did not feel as empty as it does now. This dry
shoreline was home to a thriving population from the 15th century to the time it was aban-
doned during the late 1800s. Under the rule of King Kamehameha, Kaunolu was known
as the king's favorite fishing spot. The sandy ravine fronting the beach is the only place to
successfully launch a canoe between here and Hulopo'e.
To reach the remains of the ancient canoe
hale
(house), walk for 10 yards past the picnic
table and look for a trail which switchbacks to the right. Proceed down the rocky scramble
until you come to the dry riverbed where the thin trail continues on the other side. After a
few more yards you will reach an interpretive placard which points out the canoe
hale.
You
are now standing at the base of Halulu
heiau,
a religious place of worship which remains
one of the best preserved
heiau
on the island of Lana'i today. The trail bends again to the
right as it climbs up away from the base of the dry stone rocks, and it's important to ensure
that you stay to the trail and don't start scrambling up the rock base itself. Remember that
Kaunolu is a spot of immense cultural significance to native Hawaiians; leave the site as
you found it.
After climbing up a short hill, you reach another Y-junction in the trail where you can
go left to find some petroglyphs carved in the rocks or right to reach a viewpoint of the
Kaholo Pali. These sea cliffs are the tallest on Lana'i, with a few topping out at just over
1,000 feet. From here you'll also notice a notch in the cliff which is labeled as Kahekili's
Leap. A fearless warrior chief from the late 1700s, Kahekili is reputed to have been tat-
tooed black over the entire right half of his body, eyelids and tongue included. He's also
reputed to have brought his warriors to this spot on Lana'i where they would throw them-
