UPCOUNTRY - Maui: Including Molokai and Lanai - page 366

878-1910, www.thompsonranchmaui.com ) . The rides take place in the pastures of a work-
ing cattle ranch, and there isn't one thing about this ride that feels “touristy” in any way.
You meet Jerry and Toni Thompson at their ranch house and then hitch a ride with them up
to the horse stables, where you are introduced to your steed for the next two hours ($100).
Once saddled up, you climb up toward the uppermost edge of the ranch where the pasture
bumps into the edge of the Polipoli forest. Since this is all private land—and there is no
other way to access this section of the mountain—riding across these pastures provides a
glimpse into one of the only places in the United States where you can ride near forests of
native koa and sandalwood trees and gaze down on the clear blue Pacific. This is a fantast-
ic ride for couples or families looking for an off the beaten path riding experience.
To ride across the back of a dormant volcano on horseback, head to Triple L Ranch
(15900 Pi'ilani Hwy., 808/280-7070, www.triplelranchmaui.com , 8am-6pm daily). The
paniolos out here seem a little gruffer, a little tougher, and just a little more “cowboy.”
Maybe it's just the isolation of Kanaio, but something about being out here makes it feel
more lawless and exciting. While one-hour and two-hour rides are offered for $125 and
$150 (and include a voucher for a free Bully's Burger), the real reason to choose this ranch
over any other is the chance to book either a half-day ($285) or full-day ($375) ride down
to a rocky beach completely inaccessible from anywhere else on the island. Centuries ago
this section of mountain sported a large native Hawaiian population, and along the way the
guides will point out archaeological sites dating to the days of ancient Hawai'i. Further-
more, if you are an advanced rider and want to trot, canter, or gallop your horse, there isn't
anyone who's going to stop you. Four miles past the Tedeschi Winery in Ulupalakua, this
is truly the “last frontier” out here, a place of rugged beauty, relentless sun, and genuine
guides who have been ranching this land for more than 50 years.
BIRD-WATCHING
Haleakala National Park
The forests of Haleakala National Park offer the best opportunity for spotting en-
dangered and endemic forest birds. Given the extreme isolation of the Hawaiian ar-
chipelago, 71 species of birds have been classified as being endemic to the islands, a dis-
tinction meaning they are found nowhere else on earth. Unfortunately, of those initial 71
species, 23 have already become extinct, and dozens of others are critically endangered.
Due to rodents, feral cats, and mongooses, as well as the removal of the native bird's hab-
itat, species such as the 'i'wi, 'apapane, 'amakihi, Maui creeper, and 'akohekohe now find
themselves clinging to existence on the remote slopes of Haleakala.