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to reprovision their ships, soak their livers, and soothe their rusty loins. Answering the call
to save these poor souls, Christian missionaries from New England began to arrive in the
early 1820s, bolstered by the support of Queen Ka'ahumanu who had embraced the values
of Christianity. Lahaina became a literal and metaphorical battleground between drunken
whalers and pious missionaries to win the native Hawaiian populace. Lahaina truly was the
Wild West of the Pacific. Today, scores of historic sites pertaining to this era are scattered
about town.
Thanks to the tireless work of the Lahaina Restoration Foundation, many of the town's
historical sites are well marked and accessible. Pick up a walking tour map from the
Lahaina Visitor Center in the Courthouse next to Lahaina Harbor or a Mo'olelo O La-
haina historical and cultural walking tour map from the offices of the Lahaina Restoration
Foundation on the grounds of the Baldwin Missionary home.
The Banyan Tree
This magnificent tree is the most recognizable landmark in West Maui. You can't miss it
at the corner of Hotel and Front Streets, because it spreads its shading boughs over almost
an acre. Every night at sunset there is a calming cacophony of hundreds of mynah birds
who sing from its upper reaches. This tree is the largest banyan in the state, planted in
April 1873 by Sheriff Bill Smith in commemoration of the Congregationalist Missions'
golden anniversary. Every year during the month of April a birthday party is held for the
tree which draws hundreds of people to its shady confines. During most days you can find
old-timers sitting here chatting, and artists gather here on weekends to display their art-
work under the tree's broad branches. The tree is also a gathering place for the local home-
less population.
Fort
On the southwestern edge of the park are the restored coral remnants of the historic La-
haina fort. By 1825 the missionaries had convinced Hawaiian royalty that drunken sailors
running amok in town was morally lamentable, so strict laws forbade native women from
visiting the ships and whalers from coming ashore after nightfall. These rules, as you can
imagine, proved a severe hindrance to any lascivious pursuits, and riots frequently broke
out between angry whalers and the missionaries. In 1827, whalers anchored offshore went
so far as to lob cannonballs into the lawn of missionary William Richards' house, and it
was decided by Hoapili—the governor of Maui—that a fort needed to be built to protect
the town from the pent-up whalers. Hence, in 1832, a fort was constructed out of coral
blocks with walls 20 feet high and laden with cannons, the restored remnants of which are
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