Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
TRADITIONAL ARCHITECTURE
There are three main types of traditional architecture found in Seoul: palaces, temples and
homes. They are all primarily made of wood, with no nails used - a system of braces and
brackets holds the elements together. They were (and often still are) heated using an ingeni-
ous system of circulating underfloor smoke tunnels called
ondol
.
Constructed around the 1st century AD, the Mongchon-to-seong (Mongchon Clay Fortress)
was built on the southern banks of the Han River during the kingdom of Baekje (18 BC-AD
475). It's still there in Olympic Park.
Palaces
During the Joseon era (1392-1897), five main palaces were constructed in the royal capital.
These were cities unto themselves, massive complexes with administrative offices, residen-
ces, pleasure pavilions and royal gardens, all hemmed in by imposing walls. A prominent
feature is the roof of these structures, which is made from heavy clay tiles with dragons or
other mythical beasts embossed on the end tile. The strikingly bold, predominantly green-
and-orange paintwork under the eaves is called
dancheong
. Ceilings are often intricately
carved and coloured.
Because of centuries of invasion and war, Seoul's palaces have all been painstakingly re-
built countless times, sometimes changing their shape altogether.
Temples, Shrines & Royal Tombs
SAVING THE HANOK
'Thirty-five years ago there were around 800,000
hanok
in South Korea; now there are less than 10,000', says
Peter Bartholomew, an American expat in Korea. For over 40 years Bartholomew has been battling the predomin-
ant view among Koreans that such traditional houses are an anachronism in their modern country, unworthy of
preserving.
Bartholomew has lived in
hanok
since he first came to Korea in 1968 as a Peace Corps volunteer and has
owned one in the Dongsomun-dong area of northern Seoul since 1974. He bought an adjacent property in 1991.
In 2009 Bartholomew and his neighbours won a two-year legal battle against the city over plans to redevelop the