Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Eating
KOREAN
GWANGJANG MARKET$
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( Jongno-5ga; dishes ₩4000-10,000; 5am-10pm Mon-Sat; Line 1 to Jongno-5ga, Exit 5) Also spelled
'Kwangjang', this market feels like it's been frozen in time; during the day you'll find food
and fabrics sold here as well as a great section specialising in second-hand clothes (ac-
cessed by the stairs to the upper floor outside exit 5, open until 7pm). The best time to visit.
though. is the evening, when the end towards Dongdaemun morphs into Seoul's largest
food alley (or meokjagolmok ), with some 200 stalls specialising in dishes such as crispy,
thick nokdu bindaetteok (mung-bean pancake; 5000) that are big enough to be shared by
two. Pair them up with healthy bowls of bibimbap or boribap (mixed rice and barley
topped with a selection of veggies).
NOODLES, BARBECUE
WOO RAE OAK$$
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( 2265 0151; Jugyo-dong; mains ₩11,000-43,000; 11.30am-9.30pm Tue-Sun; Line 2 or 4 to Euljiro 4ga,
Exit 4; ) Tucked away in the sewing-machine parts section of Dongdaemun's sprawling
market is this elegant old-timer specialising in bulgogi and galbi (barbecued beef; from
29,000, could feed two). But it's the delicious naengmyeon (buckwheat cold noodles) that
are the best and a great lunch with the delicious kimchi.
GULMAEUL NAKJICHON$
( 959 3004; www.gulgul.co.kr ; Jegi-dong; mains ₩6500-8000; 10.30am-10pm; Line 1 to Jegi-dong, Exit
2; ) This sit-on-the-floor place, specialising in good- value oyster and octopus dishes
served either with rice or in spicy soups, is a fine option if you're browsing the medicinal
herb market. Find it heading towards the river, south of, but on the same side of the road as,
Shinhan Bank.
KOREAN
MY FRIEND & ALA-TOO$$
CENTRAL ASIAN
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( 9am-10pm Mon-Sat; Line 1 or 4 to Dongdaemun History & Culture Park, Exit 5; ) Cyrillic script on
the buildings signal the location of Dongdaemun's 'Central Asian' village where you'll
find Russian speaking traders from the 'stans, Mongolia and Russia hanging out, enjoying
shashlyk (barbecue meat), plov (a meaty pilaf dish) and lagman (soup noodles). A good
place to join in the party is this spacious, friendly joint.
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