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gether with Gyeongridan at the bottom of the hill, the area is now an arty enclave with a really diverse popula-
tion.'
'You'll find some things here you won't find in other parts of Seoul,' says Hammington, such as the acoustic
music HBC Fest ( www.hbcfest.com ) and a craft brewing and fermented foods festival, supported by local
brewers Craftworks and Magpie Brewing.
To reach HBC take subway line 6 to Noksapyeong, head out of exit 2 and walk downhill, veering left at the
kimchi pots. Hammington lists some of his favourite spots along this main drag going uphill towards Namsan.
Best Korean Barbecue
HBC Gogitjip OFFLINE MAP GOOGLE MAP (HBC ; 796 5528; meals ₩10,000-25,000; 5-11pm Sun &
Mon, 5pm-1am Tue-Sat; ) is my favourite galbi joint - I usually order the prime flower beef which isn't
marinated. Each meal comes with plenty of side dishes and they have Dr Pepper BBQ sauce if you prefer in-
stead of chilli paste.
Best Makgeolli
Damotori ( 6pm-1am Sun-Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat; ) serves around 30 types of makgeolli (Korean rice
wine) including ones that are handmade with top quality natural ingredients.
Best Hang-outs
Phillies Pub is an institution, as are the brunch spot Indigo and above it, The Orange Tree , a bar which occa-
sionally hosts comedy and improv nights.
Best Coffee
HBC is coffeeshop heavy. My favourite is Le Cafe ; the owner roasts the coffee in the store so you can be sure
it's fresh and tastes great. Across the road is the trendier-looking Hackney , which is also pet friendly.
Best Sandwich
Casablanca Sandwicherie (sandwiches ₩4000-5000; 5-10.45pm Tue-Sun) is always busy - no wonder as
their Moroccan sandwiches served in crispy baguettes are incredible.
TWO HEADS ARE BETTER THAN ONE
OFFLINE MAP GOOGLE MAP
( www.steveandyonip.com ; Hannam-dong; 11.30am-7.30pm; Line 6 to Hanganjin, Exit 3) The two heads
collaborating on the super-fashionable streetware in this boutique are local designers
Steve J and Yoni P. Their T-shirts, sweatshirts and colourful printed clobber is stocked by
high-class boutiques around the world, but their flagship store is down this happening
little street in Hannam-dong.
FASHION
I'PARK MALL
MALL
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