Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
TOP SIGHTS
DEOKSUGUNG
Deoksugung (meaning Palace of Virtuous Longevity) is the only one of the four main palaces that you can visit in
the evening to enjoy a quieter atmosphere and see the buildings - both traditional Korean and Western-style neo-
classical structures - illuminated. The palace's main gate is also the scene of a picturesque changing of the guard
ceremony three times a day.
Palace History
Deoksugung became a palace in 1593 when King Seonjo moved in after all of Seoul's oth-
er palaces were destroyed during the Japanese invasion. Despite two kings being crowned
here, it became a secondary palace from 1615 until 1897 when Emperor Gojong took up
residence so he could be close to where foreign legations were concentrated in the city at
the time. Forced by the Japanese to abdicate 10 years later, Gojong carried on living here in
some style until he died in 1919.
The palace used to be three times as big as it is now. Hwangudan, the Altar to Heaven,
where Gojong performed rituals related to Korea's standing as an 'empire', was inside the
grounds but is now tucked behind the Westin Chosun across Seoul Plaza.
Palace Buildings
Deoksugung is a potpourri of contrasting architectural styles. Junghwa-jeon, the palace's
main throne hall is adorned with dragons and has golden window frames. Behind it is the
mini Buckingham Palace-style Seokjo-jeon, designed by British architect GR Harding and
completed in 1910, and a western wing designed by a Japanese architect in the late 1930s.
Both were closed for restoration at the time of research but should now be open as an an-
nex of the National Museum of Contemporary Art.
Behind Gojong's living quarters, Hamnyeong-jeon, is the interesting fusion-style pavil-
ion Jeonggwan-heon designed by Russian architect Aleksey Seredin-Sabatin as a place for
the emperor to savour coffee and entertain guests. Gojong developed a taste for the bever-
age while holed up for a year in the Russian legation following the assassination of Queen
Min. The pavilion's pillars, a veranda and metal railings are decorated with deer and bats -
both auspicious creatures.
The stone mythical creatures in the main courtyard are
haechi,
which are supposed to
protect the palace from fire. In 1904 they must have fallen asleep as the palace burnt down.
