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operation where you can also choose the different elements of the dish, ie type of rice,
topping and sauce. There's also a branch in Apgujeong.
MEMILGGUJ PILMURYEP$
KOREAN
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(Tongui-dong; meals ₩7000-8000; noon-8pm) Handy for Gyeonbukgung and Tongui-dong, this
simple eatery where you sit on the floor serves up big steaming bowls of buckwheat
noodles, dumplings and pajeon pancakes.
SONG'S KITCHEN$$
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NEO KOREAN
(Tongin-dong; 11am-11pm Tue-Sun; mains ₩6000-25,000; Line 3 to Gyeongbokgung, Exit 2) In an art-
fully styled hanok , interesting dishes to share are offered (such as tteokbokki served in a
carved-out squash), alongside Western cuisine including pizza and fried-rice filled om-
elettes. There's a good wine and drinks list making it a pleasant spot to linger in the even-
ing.
Insa-dong, Bukchon & Samcheong-dong
BUKCHON'S HIDDEN TREASURES
Editor of the monthly magazine Seoul and author of guidebooks to Seoul and Korea, Robert Koehler has lived
in Korea for over 15 years. Dressed in traditional Korean clothing, Koehler conducts Saturday-afternoon walk-
ing tours of Bukchon ( CLICK HERE ) during which he waxes lyrical about one of his favourite topics: architecture.
We asked him for the scoop on the hidden gems of this increasingly touristed area.
Best Coffee
Kopi Bangasgan ( CLICK HERE ) is run by an interesting character who used to work in IT but then moved into
brewing coffee. I like the way he's renovated the hanok to make this cafe - it still looks like it's lived in, like a
Korean grandmother's house. Sitting inside you can see the tiled roofs of other hanok outside.
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