Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Rosthwaite, the 'capital' of Borrowdale, is a small, peaceful community flanking the
roadside. Unwittingly, Sir Hugh Walpole, has, however, planted the seeds of discord,
for at least three houses claim to be the 'original' of Rogue Herries' Farm. At a more
prosaic level, it is a fine end to a day that might have started as far away as Ennerdale
Bridge, and a good spot to prepare for the next day, and, as Wainwright puts it, '… a
rare chance to sleep in Arcadia'.
BORROWDALE
Borrowdale lies at the very heart of Lakeland, its great length probing far into the 'tur-
bulent chaos of mountain behind mountain, rolled in confusion…' that greeted Thomas
Gray when, the day after his arrival at Keswick on 2 October 1769, he 'rose at sev-
en, and walked out under the conduct of [his] landlord to Borrowdale'. It is the most
beautiful of valleys, a tangled landscape of craggy precipices, verdant woodlands, vivid
green pasturelands fed by sparkling rivers and streams, white cottages and rustic farm
buildings, all in a setting of nature's own perfection. Journalist Bernard Levin once ob-
served, during his trek In Hannibal's Footsteps , that any 'varied landscape, provided it
is not marred by hideous… manmade objects… is beautiful', commenting how this sug-
gested that 'the harmonies of nature are so powerful that no matter what instruments
they are played on, in what combinations and at what relative strengths, the result will
be pleasing.'
He noted, too, that 'if the manmade objects… are not ugly and do blend well… nature
absorbs them into the picture and they actually enhance its beauty. 'Nowhere is that
perception better exemplified than in Borrowdale.
Sadly, the walk's acquaintance with these Elysian fields is all too brief - no sooner
does it enter Borrowdale than it departs into the cleavage of Stonethwaite valley.
Rosthwaite to Grasmere (Goody Bridge) via Far
Easedale
Distance
11.3km (7 miles)
Height Gain
530m (1740 feet)
The section of the walk between Rosthwaite and Patterdale can be accomplished in one
day, though two would be better, with an overnight halt at or near Grasmere. Speed
of progress is the obvious, and only, tolerable reason for pushing across in one day,
but bear in mind that the climb up to Greenup Edge, although largely a constructed
affair these days, is quite steep in places, and tiring. Whatever choice you make, there
is beauty throughout.
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