ACROSS LAKELAND - A Northern Coast to Coast Walk: From St Bees to Robin Hood's Bay - page 17

Other nearby villages - Frizington, Arlecdon and Cleator Moor - also grew, as
between 1840 and 1880 they bore the weight of an increase in population from 835
to 17,651, with the number of miners rising from 60 to over 6000. These mere stat-
istics, largely derived from census returns, however, tell little of the real story that af-
flicted this proud and beautiful region, a story of social problems like overcrowding and
deprivation, of hard men, drinking men, who brought to West Cumberland, be it from
Ireland, Scotland, Cornwall, Northumberland, Lancashire and Yorkshire, a social atmo-
sphere more akin to the Klondike days that were yet to beset North America than the
north of England.
Now all that remains to delay passers-by, apart from the Three Tuns pub, is Cleator's
church, dedicated to St Leonard, built from red sandstone. Though modern in style, the
church has elements of Norman handiwork in its chancel walls, and one of the windows
depicts the Lady of Egremont and her husband meeting (St) Bega at the castle gate.
Unlikely to feature high on tourist itineraries (and is that such a bad thing?), Cleator
is nevertheless very much a gateway to Lakeland. Nearby flows the River Ehen, and
that, before long, marks the boundary of the Lake District National Park.

Cleator to Ennerdale Bridge

Distance 8.5km (5.3 miles)

Height Gain 405m (1330 feet)

The walk hastens to leave Cleator behind, and between its sad reminder of times gone
by and the approaches to the lake at Ennerdale, it travels a fascinating route that only
a few and the curious will know. The dome of Dent is an excellent little fell of great
stature on which to rev up for things to come. Dent's panorama is one of the finest
in Lakeland, and its summit a perfect resting place, while beyond lies the quiet valley
of Uldale and the secret meeting place of three sparkling, softly murmuring streams.
This is Nannycatch Gate, a hidden gem beneath the dark frown of Raven Crag that is
sure to call you back when the walk is done.