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$1600 duty-free allowance in the shops. In the evening, swing by Frenchtown to check out
the area's funky bistros and wine bars. The next day ferry over to the quiet fourth Virgin,
Water Island , and walk to Honeymoon Beach to swim and snorkel.
Take the floatplane from downtown for the cool, 20-minute flight to Christiansted , on
St Croix . Over the next three days drink at old windmills turned gin mills on the wharf,
play like a pirate at the big yellow fort, and poke around the art galleries and colonial build-
ings scattered around town. Motor to the WestEnd to visit the rum factory, botanic garden
and evocative plantation museum. Drop by Frederiksted for a snorkel around the historic
pier, or maybe a mountain bike ride into the spooky rainforest. Divers should set a course
for the North Shore to immerse at the gaping coral-encrusted wall. Just east is Salt River
Bay , where Christopher Columbus landed in 1493; modern-day explorers can rent a kayak
and set off for a night-paddle through the glimmering bioluminescent waters.
From Christiansted, return to Charlotte Amalie via seaplane, then head to Red Hook to
catch the ferry to St John for a couple of days. You can't beat it for snorkeling beaches
with fish-frenzied reefs to explore, and for hiking trails that wind by petroglyphs, sugar
mill ruins and feral donkeys. Cruz Bay makes a primo base thanks to its festive bars and
restaurants, which plate up everything from Italian gnocchi to Mallorcan paella to West In-
dian barbecue.
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