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pick and mix a platter of daily specials (stewed eggplant, soy duck, veggie lasagna) from
the glass case. Owner Jahleejah Love Peace also offers fruit smoothies, bush tea and vegan
cakes and muffins at her little cafe, which is attached to her Kulcha Shop that stocks reggae
CDs, books, jewelry and clothing. Only three tables sit in the steamy cafe, so it's best to
carry out. Have a picnic at Veteran's Memorial Park, which offers shaded benches a block
to the east.
Petite Pump Room WEST INDIAN $$
( www.petitepumproom.com ; mains $10-20; Waterfront Hwy; breakfast & lunch
Mon-Sat) The Pump Room sits above the Marine Terminal, but it's more than just a place
to kill time while waiting for a ferry or seaplane. The family who operates it cooks de-
licious daily lunch specials like stewed mutton, callaloo, garlic-butter sautéed conch, and
saltfish in sweet pepper sauce. They make their own hot sauce, as well as their own mango
and soursop (a tropical fruit) ice cream. Omelets and pancakes emerge from the kitchen for
breakfast.
Virgilio's ITALIAN $$
( 340-776-4920; 18 Main St; mains $20-35; lunch & dinner Mon-Sat) Virgilio's
has been heaping upscale northern Italian fare onto plates for many moons. The vaulted
ceilings, 18th-century furnishings, opera music and scent of garlic and Chianti might re-
mind you of a restaurant you would discover on an alley in Firenze. Pasta, veal parmesan,
calamari, salmon and many more standards fill the menu. Several of the pasta dishes are
meat-free. There's a carryout window fronting Back St (how's that for an oxymoron) where
you can order salads and sandwiches ($10 to $14) piled with blackened tilapia and other
ingredients.
Hervé Restaurant & Wine Bar FRENCH $$$
( 340-777-9703; www.herverestaurant.com ;mains$28-45; dinner) Longstanding
Hervé focuses on French-Caribbean cuisine served in a candlelit, Old World ambience. The
setting is a formal terrace in a historic townhouse with views of the downtown rooftops and
the harbor. Nightly specials such as spinach flambé, seafood bouillabaisse and stuffed quail
join standards like lamb chops and lots of buttery, spicy fish and shellfish options. Make re-
servations. Hervé's wife Paulette operates the adjoining patio which works well for a glass
of wine.
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