Agriculture Reference
In-Depth Information
Growing
In the coldest months, frost will make peas (even round-seeded varieties, sup-
posedly capable of overwintering) lose their rigidity. Unless supported by addi-
tional ties, peas may 'unwind' from their strings and fall over. If this happens, a
kink in their main stems may not be something from which they can recover and
they may either die or be substantially set back in their growth. However, if tied
so that they cannot fall, when the cold weather passes they will simply re-inflate
and continue growing.
Place them along the north side of the tunnel if possible so they don't shade
anything else as they get taller. Peas need support, so train them up strings or
pea netting.
Overwintering peas will probably begin producing flowers and even an occa-
sional pod during December, and these should be picked so the plant doesn't get
the message that the growing season is over.
Harvesting and storage
Podding peas and snap peas are ready to pick as soon as the pods are well filled,
whereas 'snow' peas are best picked before the peas inside have developed at all.
Keeping all varieties well picked will ensure a longer harvest: the more you pick,
the more you get.
Snap and snow peas can be frozen successfully. Wash, trim off the flower end
and pull out the string (if present) before blanching in boiling water for two min-
utes then open freezing. Podding peas can be treated the same way, but there is
no need to wash them first and they should be blanched for only a minute and a
half. In all three cases, blanch and freeze the food as soon as possible after har-
vesting it, as the natural sugars in the peas are quickly converted to starch.
Problems
Mice
and
slugs
. Bottle cloches with copper tape rings (see Chapter 10, page 170)
are ideal protection for both, and can be left in place for the entire growing
season.
Aphids
are sometimes a problem but less so on overwintering plants.
