Agriculture Reference
In-Depth Information
harvest. A protected plant or two in the tunnel will ensure a steady supply right
through the winter, when the most exciting things happening in the 'outside'
garden are Brussels sprouts, parsnips and kale.
Preparation
Chard is extremely forgiving and very little preparation is necessary for it to do
well. As long as it can get plenty of light and a good supply of moisture, it will
produce leaves up to 60cm long in any reasonably fertile soil. It prefers good
drainage, but can even grow well on heavier clay soils.
Sowing
Chard will germinate from 8°C to 25°C but does best at around 21°C. For an early
harvest sow singly 0.5-1cm deep in modules in February, or direct into the soil
beds during March and April. The 'seeds' are actually seed clusters and may
produce more than one plant, so thin to the best one or two starts per pot. Chard
is not as delicate as many plants and most people should have no trouble success-
fully transplanting it to its final position in April. For a supply of really striking
baby leaves to brighten up spring salads, sow a seed of a 'ruby' or 'rainbow'
variety every 5cm into a drill in the soil beds in early March, and cover with a
fleece until the seedlings are up. Pick the baby leaves frequently, and gradually
thin out to their final spacings (see below).
Growing
Plant out at 30cm each way. Chard will do well under a wide range of conditions,
rarely bolting in its first year. Feeding is usually not needed. The white variety is
slightly less prone to slug damage and slightly more hardy in cold weather.
Harvesting and storage
To avoid damaging the crown, cut leaves off near the base of the plant with a
knife as they are needed, rather than picking them. For salad use, harvest the
young inner leaves when they are 8cm long or less; for cooking, go for larger
leaves and strip out the midrib, which is also edible if chopped but needs a few
more minutes' cooking. Chard can be kept in a plastic bag in the fridge for a few
days, but ideally it should be used as fresh as possible. The leaves (but not the
stems) can be blanched in boiling water for two minutes, cooled quickly in cold
water and then spun or squeezed to remove as much water as possible before
freezing in plastic bags or containers.
Problems
Slugs
are a problem when the plants are young, but are unlikely to damage them
very much later.
Caterpillars
can be a problem in autumn, and unfortunately
tend to shelter deep in the centres of the plants where it's difficult to remove
them without damaging the leaves.
