Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Inside the compound stands the blackened wood hut (1788) that was
King Andrianam-
poinimerina's palace
(the word 'palace' seems at odds with the simplicity of the structure,
but palace it was). The original was thatched, but French engineer Jean Laborde replaced
the grass roof with more durable wooden tiles in the 19th century.
The central pole of the hut is made from a single trunk of sacred
palissandre
(rosewood),
which was reportedly carried from the east coast by 2000 slaves, 100 of whom died in the
process. The top of the pole is carved to show a pair of women's breasts, a symbol of the
king's polygamy. The king supposedly hid in the rafters when visitors arrived, signalling
whether the guest was welcome by dropping pebbles onto his wife's head.
The royal bed is in the sacred northwest corner of the hut and is elevated to indicate the
king's superior status. The simple furniture is aligned according to astrological rules.
Behindthehutaretheopen-airbathswherethekingperformedhisroyalablutionsoncea
year, in the company of his 12 wives and diverse honoured guests. Afterwards his bathwa-
ter was considered sacred and was delivered to waiting supplicants.
NextdoortoKingAndrianampoinimerina'shut,inastrikingstylecontrast,istheelegant
summer palace
of Queen Ranavalona I (r 1828-1861), constructed by Jean Laborde in
1870 (who was thought to be Ranavalona's lover). It's been beautifully restored and has
original European-style furniture inside. The dining room is lined with mirrors, which al-
lowed the queen to check that no one was sneakily poisoning her food.
Ambohimanga is still revered amongst many Malagasies as a sacred site, and you will
see offerings (zebu horns, blood, sweets, honey as well as small change) at various
shrines
around the compound where individuals or families have come to invoke royal spirits for
luck and fertility. Don't disturb these sacred locations and never point at them with your
finger outstretched.
There are sensational
views
of the surrounding countryside from around the compound.
Make sure you take a guide to go round the Rova to learn about the site's historical and
cultural significance. Guides are available by the entrance where you pay your admission.
Otherwise, contact the local tourism promotion office
OSCAR
( 26 300 46), which or-
ganises guided circuits in the compound and surrounding area.
THE MERINA
The region surrounding Antananarivo is known as Imerina (Land of the Merina
Tribe). Historically, the Merina have been Madagascar's dominating tribe,
reigning over the country for several centuries.
Merina hierarchy was based on a three-tier caste system, largely dependent on
skin colour. The
andriana
, or nobles (generally fairer-skinned and with pro-
nounced Asiatic rather than African features, reflecting their Indonesian ances-
