Eastern Madagascar - Madagascar - page 347

INFORMATION
There are banks and ATMs in the centre of town. Internet access is available at Alex
Papurus (per min Ar50) on the main road. The Office Régional du Tourisme ( 034 57
901 47;

8am-noon & 2-6pm Mon-Sat), facing the port, has forgotten its mission.

South of Ambodifotatra
The area between Ambodifotatra and the airport contains most of the island's hotels, mak-
ing it easy to reach various restaurants. The beach is narrow on this western shore, but on
the other side, facing the Ilots aux Sables (Isles of Sand), lies a beautiful unspoiled stretch
of tropical coastline. Walk across the small hill to the east of the airport.

SIGHTS

Cimetière des Pirates CEMETERY
This is a fascinating spot from which to contemplate the history of the island. The scenic
cemetery overlooks the Baie de Forbans, which, as a quick look at the map will tell you,
was the perfect pirate hangout, and smells of a very different era. Ironically, most of the
gravestones are actually missionaries, but you can clearly see the skull and crossbones on
the grave of one young English pirate. The crumbling piers where they dragged their ships
out of the water for repairs are visible from here, as is the small island of Ile aux Forbans ,
where many pirates lived, and a lookout point. Access is via an isolated foot track, which
crosses several tidal creeks and slippery logs about 10 minutes south of the causeway.
Guides hang around at the entrance to collect a small community fee (Ar2000), to which
they add their own fee if you hire them (Ar5000 is more than ample). However, as their
actual knowledge and English may be limited, we strongly recommend that you come here
with someone who knows the history of the area. AT-SM Agency ( 032 40 084 43, 034
01 793 81; [e-mail]) can arrange this. It's completely unique and worth the effort.

Endemika ZOO
(admission Ar15,000; 8am-noon & 2-5pm Mon-Sat) About halfway down the southern
road, just before Vohilava, this small private zoo and botanical garden showcases regional
flora and fauna. It takes about an hour to see.

SLEEPING & EATING

Princesse Bora Lodge & Spa LODGE €€€