Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Fenoarivo-Atsinanana (Fénérive Est)
POP 24,000
Unless you have a great interest in cloves, or the need for a bank, there's really no reason
to come to this agricultural market town (usually just called 'Fenoarivo' or 'Fénérive'), but
if you're driving through and want to exercise your legs a bit, it's fun to track down the
remains of the
pirate fort
2km to the south, in Vohimasina, although you'll need local help
to find it. It's a large circular stone wall atop a hill with a commanding view in all direc-
tions, screaming for an archaeologist. Look for the modern observation tower adjacent.
If you must stay, the best place is the new ensuite bungalows behind the restaurant and
disco
Mimi Club
( 033 20 425 87; d bungalow Ar50,000; breakfast, lunch, dinner;
), which you can't miss: it's behind the long red wall on the main road. The
disco
(entry
Ar2000) hops Friday, Saturday and Sunday, though, so either bring earplugs or put on your
dancing shoes.
Soanierana-Ivongo
POP 44,000
The riverside shanty port of Soanierana-Ivongo is the most practical of places: you go there
to get a boat to or from Ile Sainte Marie, and if you get stuck, to stay overnight.
The latter can occur for three reasons: 1) you arrive late, because the trip down the RN5
from Mananara takes longer than you expected, or because you take a slow taxi-brousse;
2) you arrive on time but the boat is full; or 3) you arrive on time but the trip has been
cancelled due to weather conditions. This typically occurs when there has been a weather
cancellation the previous day, creating a backlog of passengers.
Careful planning avoids problem one, and a reservation avoids problem two, but a
weather delay is always a possibility, particularly during winter, and can even last more
than a day. If that happens, the only alternative is to hire a car to take you to the airport in
Tamatave, assuming there is a flight with empty seats to Ile Sainte Marie. Thus our warn-
ing: travellers on a tight schedule, who are not otherwise driving the coast road, should ser-
iously consider flying from Tamatave to Ile Sainte Marie just to be safe, even if it is more
expensive. Otherwise you risk spending several days in what is definitely not paradise.
In addition, the crossing here is dangerous, as the boats exit a shallow river mouth with
incoming breaking waves. In 2011, a boat capsized killing a government minister and 13
others, largely because they could not swim. Before that there was a fatal accident in 2006.
The danger is particularly pronounced between June and September, when water levels
are low. Having said that, if the weather complies, it is a pretty and inexpensive trip. Some
travellers choose to fly one way between Tana and Ile Sainte Marie and then travel back by
shuttle and private car, stopping off along the way.
