Eastern Madagascar - Madagascar - page 318

peaceful ambience. The surprise is how much there is to do here, including forest walks,
village visits, swimming, pirogue trips, and hikes to the sea (only 40 minutes away) - more
thanenoughtokeepyoubusyforseveraldays.Thisconscientioushotelsponsorslocalcon-
servation efforts.
Lac Rasobe & Manambato
This pretty lake has a beautiful white-sand beach and two places to stay. Of these, Acacias
( 033 12 338 35; www.acaciasbungalows.com ; d bungalow Ar50,000) is the much better
choice, with cute bungalows on the beach connected by sandy paths, and management that
pays attention to the details. Picnics packed on request. Chez Luigi ( 033 20 552 55;
d bungalow Ar40,000) has some colourful bungalows steps from the beach, but meals are
overpriced and at the time of research there had been no running water for some time; cli-
ents are handed a bucket of water from the lake. The prices did not reflect this.
Ambila-Lemaitso
The main attraction in this sleepy region is Nirvana d'Ambila ( 033 15 017 78, 033
11 016 60; [e-mail]; d bungalow Ar60,000), one of our choice end-of-
the-Earth hotels, which faces the ferry crossing at the end of the Brickaville road. The hotel
enjoys a captivating location astride the barrier beach, with its canal dock on one side, the
roaring ocean on the other, and barely 50m in between. The clean and basic bungalows,
with private bathrooms and hot water, have all been renovated, and the atmospheric res-
taurant (breakfast Ar6000, set menu Ar30,000), with its great fresh seafood and jazz play-
ing in the background, will lull you into relaxation, assisted by an attentive and friendly
staff bearing bottles of wine.
Be forewarned: this is a place that slowly steals your heart. There is something special
about it, a tranquillity that grows over time, such that its name becomes entirely appropri-
ate. Half-board obligatory.
From the ferry crossing, it's another 4km north along a sandy track to Ambila-Lemaitso,
where you can inquire about boats heading up or down the canal. Less expensive, but
more run-of-the-mill accommodation includes Tropicana ( 036 11 044 56; d bungalow
Ar30,000) and River Garden ( 033 07 909 98; [e-mail]; d bungalow
Ar30,000) both of which offer similar riverfront bungalows. The most incongruous sight
is the three large French canal boats ( 033 12 257 18) at Tropicana, straight from the
Canal du Midi, which are rented out for Ar250,000 per half day, Ar500,000 per full day.