Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
PANGALANES LAKES
For travellers, the most popular section of the extensive Pangalanes Canal ( Click here ) is the
region between Ambila-Lemaitso and Tamatave, where the canal links several large lakes
together.
This is one of Madagascar's lightly visited natural wonders, where half the fun is getting
around. Travel here is done largely by long and narrow metal canal boats, which ply the
waters from end to end, leaking all the while. Some carry tourists to the lake hotels, oth-
ers cargo, villagers, and the occasional off-the-beaten track traveller. Cruising in this placid
freshwater network is a fascinating journey through time and history, not to mention luxuri-
ant vegetation. In the villages of the Betsimisaraka people, which spot the banks, traditional
life goes on as ever. People throw cast nets, paddle by in pirogues, dry eels in the sun, and
invariably wave a greeting. Fishing weirs appear at intervals, like gates across the waterway.
The lakes themselves are very placid and picturesque, with nice beaches and no develop-
ment apart from a handful of beach bungalows. The canal creates an interesting topograph-
ical effect, too, a long and very narrow outer beach that separates it from the Indian Ocean,
such that a brief walk takes you from placid lake to tempestuous sea. Oddly, for such extens-
ive wetlands, there are few animals of any kind to be seen from the water, not even birds.
GETTING TO & AROUND THE PANGALANES LAKES
The easiest, but not necessarily cheapest, way to get to the lakes is to arrange a
transfer through your hotel. If you can find a seat on a tour group's boat this
should greatly reduce the cost. Calypso Tours ( Click here ) can also arrange this.
The other way is to do it yourself. If you opt for the latter, here are your options.
BRICKAVILLE TO AMBILA-LEMAITSO
The southern point of entry to the lakes begins at Ambila-Lemaitso, 13km from
Brickaville. Either call Nirvana d'Ambila ( Click here ) for a transfer, or ask
around for a private car at the taxi-brousse station in Brickaville. Take this option
if you intend to stay in Ambila-Lemaitso overnight.
TAMATAVE TO LAC AMPITABE VIA CARGO BOAT
The northern point of entry to the lakes is the gare fluviale (river station) in
Tamatave, where canal boats carrying cargo depart daily around 10.30am. Any
pousse-pousse (rickshaw) can take you there, but do not confuse the cargo boat
dock, which is midway down a polluted waterway, with the empty canal boats at
the very end of it, as the latter are rented to tour groups. If you can, confirm your
departure the afternoon prior, otherwise show up by 9.30am. For around
Ar16,000 you will be given space to occupy, although it may mean sitting on
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