Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
to minimise disruption to Lokobe's wildlife (he'll just whisper the names of the
animals as you go). Jean organises lovely day trips to Lokobe that cost
Ar80,000 per person. They include taxi between your hotel and Ambatozavavy,
transfer in pirogue from Ambatozavavy to Ampasipohy (the starting point for
walks), a two-hour walk in the forest, lunch, drinks and admission fees to the re-
serve. Most tour operators in Nosy Be organise similar packages, often through
Jean Robert.
If you would like to spend the night in Lokobe,
Jardin Lokobe
( 86 938
11, 032 59 700 36; d half board incl breakfast & dinner €110) is a little slice of
paradise in the tiny village of Ampasipohy. The bungalows seem to come
straight out of the glossy pages of an interior-design magazine, with warm col-
ours, local materials and stunning bathrooms. Didier, the owner, is great com-
pany and his dizzying array of
rhum arrangé
(homemade rum with fruit) is
guaranteed to keep the conversation flowing until the wee hours. The beach in
front of the hotel is not great for swimming, but Didier organises a night walk in
the reserve for guests.
Ambatoloaka
Nosy Be's southernmost beach is one of the island's most touristy, but definitely not its
best. Its popularity with foreign men of a certain age in search of young Malagasy love is
what gave Nosy Be a bad name. Many travellers will feel uneasy about the sleazy atmo-
sphere, particularly in bars and restaurants. That said, Ambatoloaka can be fun: the night-
life is good by Malagasy standards, and the village comes into its own on Sundays when
locals come en masse to enjoy a day at the beach. A number of hotels have also taken a
very firm stand against sex tourism and their efforts deserve to be supported.
The village of Ambatoloaka basically stretches along one long street, with most of the
hotels, bars and restaurants clustering at the beach end of it. The beach itself, which be-
comes Madirokely at its northern end, is pretty, but the constant flow of touts, diving boats
coming in and out and noise from the seafront establishments means it's no good for an
afternoon of R&R; head north if that's what you're after.
SLEEPING
Places are often full, so it's best to reserve in advance. Lots of places quote in euros.
L'Heure Bleue
BOUTIQUE HOTEL €€€
( 8606020;
www.heurebleue.com
;
Madirokely; bungalows€100; )Onahill over-
looking the beach of Madirokely, this gorgeous hotel has a terrace with great views and a
