Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
NOSY BE
Despite being Madagascar's number-one beach destination, the island of Nosy Be remains
relatively low-key. It's the most expensive destination in Madagascar, and rooms can cost
twice as much here as on the mainland. Still, compared to Europe, prices are competitive
(exceptforthemostexclusiveresorts),andmanyvisitorsfindthelackofmajordevelopment
and mora mora (literally, slowly slowly) lifestyle worth the extra euros.
The climate is sunny year-round, and Nosy Be is paradise for water-based activities. Div-
ingistheisland'stopdraw,butthereisplentyofswimming,snorkellingandsailingforthose
keen to stay close to the surface.
Once you've had enough of seascapes, head for the rolling landscapes of the little-ex-
plored hinterland: as well as the brilliant Réserve Naturelle Intégrale de Lokobe, there are
cocoa, ylang-ylang and vanilla plantations, crater lakes and waterfalls, and miles of dirt
tracks accessible only by foot or quad bike.
Despite all these assets, Nosy Be can have a bad name as the capital of sex tourism. It's
true that Ambatoloaka is seedy in places but it is by no means representative of the whole
island, and definitely not of the surrounding islands, which are all tiny, remote and heavenly.
It's also worth knowing that tourism operators and the authorities in Nosy Be have come
down hard on prostitution and that perpetrators face heavy prison sentences.
History
Nosy Be's first inhabitants are believed to have been 15th-century Swahili and Indian
traders. Later, the island served as a magnet for refugees, merchants and settlers of all de-
scriptions.
In 1839, the Sakalava queen Tsiomeko fled to Nosy Be and turned to the French for help
in resisting her Merina enemies. In 1841, the Sakalava ceded both Nosy Be and neighbour-
ing Nosy Komba to France.
In recent years, with increasing tourism development and local environmental pressures,
deforestation has become a problem on the island, as has destruction and damage of offshore
coral reefs.
Dangers & Annoyances
The biggest scam in Nosy Be is the sale of so-called 'direct transfers' from Nosy Be to
Diego Suarez. Touts and agencies will claim that after the boat trip from Nosy Be to Ankify,
you will be whisked away in a comfortable minibus, all for a mere Ar80,000. Don't fall for
it: standard taxis-brousses (bush taxis) are all you'll find in Ankify. So resist all offers on
Nosy Be, take the boat to Ankify (Ar10,000) and once in Ankify, choose your taxi-brousse
(Ar30,000) as you would at any taxi-brousse station (the one in best condition and/or the
fullest).
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