Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
( 9552781,0320493160;L'Oasis,RtedelaPlage)Charismatic JeanleRasta,orRasta
Jean, speaks English, is reliable and owns a 4WD. He runs a range of tours in the region
and across southern Madagascar. Look for him at l'Oasis.
SAKALAVA EROTICA
The western part of Madagascar has traditionally been the area with the
strongest African influence. The language of the dark-skinned western peoples
contains many words taken from mainland African languages. The dominant
tribe in the area is the Sakalava, who venerate the relics not of their own ancest-
ors, but of their ancient royal families. This belief, plus the use of spirit medi-
ums to communicate with dead royalty, also has an African base (Bantu).
The Sakalava are perhaps best known for covering the tombs of their dead
with elaborate, erotic carvings, often depicting oral sex or other acts considered
fady
(taboo) in life. Although Sakalava tombs were once visible throughout the
entire western region, many were pillaged for their valuable carvings. Following
this desecration, the Sakalava now understandably keep the location of those
burial grounds still containing intact tombs top secret. It's important to respect
their privacy. If you are lucky enough to see these erotic artworks, please take
only photos.
SLEEPING
Trecicogne
GUESTHOUSE €
( 95 924 25;
www.hoteltrecicogne.com
; Rue de l'Indépendance; d Ar45,000, without
bathroom Ar20,000; ) This Italian-run guesthouse, right at the end of Nosy Kely pen-
insula, is a lovely place. The rooms all have polished wooden floors, whitewashed walls,
blue curtains and are absolutely spotless. The cheaper ones share bathrooms and only have
fans. The restaurant is in a verandah overlooking the mangrove canal at the back. The hotel
can organise trips to most regional attractions, including pirogue trips to Belo-sur-Mer.
Renala
BUNGALOW €€€
( 032 04 976 88;
www.renala.net
; Rue de l'Indépendance; r/bungalows from Ar55,000/
80,000; ) Renala's pretty rooms and clapboard bungalows, with their brightly col-
ouredbedspreadsandcurtains,haveagirlyqualitytothem.There'sanexcellent two-storey
