Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Purists argue that traditional wooden pirogues are the genuine experience.
Their big advantage is their quietness: except for the splash of the paddle, si-
lence reigns. Pirogues also only take three to four people (including the
piroguier
, or paddler), offering a very intimate experience. The downside is
comfort: once you've boarded the pirogue, you're stuck in that position until
your next stop and you are very exposed to the beating sun. Allow about €300
for a group of three or four.
The
chaland
(or motor boat) is a narrow, barge-like boat with two decks. The
lower deck has the engine room, kitchen, dining area and storage, whilst the up-
per deck is basically a viewing platform with loungers, seats and an awning for
shade. They generally fit eight to 12 people. Obviously the biggest downside is
the noise of the engine, but they make up for it in comfort and conviviality by
allowing you to move around and chat with fellow passengers. Most operators
will stop the boat for lunch so that you can eat in peace. Trips generally cost
€160 to €200 per person.
Either way, note that you'll need a bladder of steel to hold it between stops,
and anti-diarrheals at the ready should you need them.
Packages generally include the transfer from Miandrivazo to the boarding
point on the river; trips finish at Belo-sur-Tsiribihina. Motor boats arrive at the
ferry landing in Belo, but pirogues generally stop 40km upstream and travellers
finish the last stretch either by zebu cart or 4WD.
TOUR OPERATORS
The following tour operators are very reputable and organise excellent trips; if
you would like to do the trip by motor boat, you'll have to go through one of
them, although they can also organise pirogue trips. Most agencies will offer to
combine the Tsiribihina with a visit to Parc National des Tsingy de Bemaraha
(well worth doing), with a 4WD coming to pick you up from the landing and
delivering you in Morondava three days later. These trips cost around €900 per
person on the basis of two people, but around €500 per person with four people
(the biggest cost is the 4WD).
Mad Caméléon
( 22 630 86;
www.madcameleon.com
)
Espace Mada
( 22 262 97;
www.madagascar-circuits.com
)
Remote River Expeditions
( 95 523 47;
www.remoterivers.com
)
You'll also find plenty of hotels and local operators in Miandrivazo and Antsi-
rabe that can organise pirogue trips. Do try and inspect the camping equipment
