Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
size of buildings, adorned with stalactites and stalagmites stretch over five kilo-
metres. Shafts of light penetrate every room from passageways and holes in the
ceiling, giving the caves an eerie feel. In a clearing close to the opening cham-
ber, vegetation has reclaimed its rights and there are excellent creepers from
which to swing Tarzan-like.
What most people now come to Anjohibe for, however, are not the caves, but
the stunning natural swimming pools (admission Ar10,000). Of a deep
emerald-green colour, and framed by luxuriant vegetation and ravinala trees
fanning their leaves like parading ostriches, they are the most improbable find in
an otherwise arid landscape. The first pool is shallow, while the second pool, at
the foot of a spectacular waterfall, is deep and wonderful for swimming.
It takes a good 3½ hours to get to Anjohibe from Majunga, so spend the night
there to make the best of the pools and caves (to do it as a day trip, you'll need
to leave at first light to be back by sunset). Local guide Rivo ( 032 45 839
28), who speaks basic English, can organise a two-day visit, with a night's
camping by the pool (Ar5000 per person). The facilities are basic (tent, bush toi-
let, no shower) and the meals (Ar12,500 each for lunch and dinner, Ar7000 for
breakfast), prepared by locals, are simple. The campsite is right by the pools, so
you'll have plenty of time to swim; it's also a favourite of local lemurs, who
come here in the hope of food. At night, Rivo will get the campfire going.
The track to the Grottes d'Anjohibe is passable only between April and Octo-
ber and requires a 4WD. If you don't have your own vehicle, Rivo can help you
rent one.
Parc National d'Ankarafantsika
Ankarafantsika (130,026 hectares) is the last strand of dry western deciduous forest in
Madagascar, and the need for its protection is obvious: as you drive to Ankarafantsika,
whether from Tana or the north, there isn't a tree in sight for hundreds of miles.
The park straddles the RN4 and is therefore easily accessible, even by public transport.
The driest time to visit Ankarafantsika is between May and November, but October and
November can get very hot. Wildlife-viewing is often better during the early part of the
December-to-April wet season, when rainfall is still relatively light.
Ankarafantsika is home to eight lemur species, many easily seen, including Coquerel's
sifakaandtherecentlydiscovered Microcebusravelobensis .You'realsolikelytoseebrown
lemurs and four nocturnal species: sportive, woolly, grey mouse and fat-tailed dwarf
lemurs. More elusive is the rare mongoose lemur, which is observed almost exclusively
here.
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