Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Ambovombe is the junction for the rugged trip along the RN13 to the RN7 at Ihosy. As
such, it is marginally better equipped than Ampanihy; we were able to find a Snickers bar
in the gas station. One. So fuel up and move on. But do so carefully: the cratered road from
here to Fort Dauphin is the worst in the south - and that's saying something.
RÉSERVE PRIVÉE DE BERENTY
This well-known private
reserve
( 033 23 210 08; admission €18, d bungalow €48, set
menus €10) contains nearly one-third of the remaining tamarind gallery forest in Madagas-
car, nestled between the arms of a former oxbow lake on the Mandrare River. It was one
of Madagascar's first ecotourism destinations, and it has an international reputation, helped
along by the friendly ring-tailed lemurs that greet you in the parking lot. Visitors can walk
forest paths unguided in search of other lemurs. There is also an excellent
anthropological
museum
that provides unique insights into local Antandroy culture.
Times have changed, however. The worsening road from Fort Dauphin now means that
half of a day's excursion is spent driving, leading 80% of visitors to stay overnight. Mean-
while, a similar reserve has opened in Fort Dauphin, Réserve de Nahampoana, while much
of the wildlife here can be seen at other parks. The facilities too feel dated, giving it a sense
of a reserve slowly becoming its own museum.
For many years Berenty would not allow admission unless you bought an expensive
transfer from their own agent in Fort Dauphin. They have since widened their net to three
locations:
Chez Gigi
( 033 07 971 64) in Lavanono,
Croix Sud
( 033 23 210 08) in
Fort Dauphin and
Hotel Capricorn
( 24 743 49) in Tuléar. Still, why not simply sell
tickets at the entrance?
PARC NATIONAL D'ANDOHAHELA
This 76,020-hectare park protects some of the last remnants of rainforest in southern Mad-
agascar, as well as spiny forest and 13 species of lemurs. It also boasts over 120 species of
birds, as well as a variety of amphibians and reptiles, including crocodiles. Its boundaries
encompass the Trafonomby, Andohahela and Vohidagoro mountains, the last of which is
the source of numerous rivers and an important catchment area for the surrounding region.
The park currently maintains three main circuits for visitors. The most popular one is
Circuit Tsimelahy
(3.7km, two to 2½ hours), an excellent trail in the bird-rich transition
zonebetween thehumideast coast forestandthedryvegetation ofthecentral region.There
are campsites and some natural bathing pools. From Fort Dauphin, turn right at the sign-
post 48km along the RN13, then proceed 8km along a rough road.
Circuit Malio
is a loop of 10km (four to five hours) through low-altitude humid forest.
This is a bird and amphibian-rich walk with waterfalls and natural bathing pools, but it
may be inaccessible during rainy season. From Fort Dauphin, turn right after 25km on the
RN13, then proceed 13km on a dirt road (4WD advisable).
