Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
THE CAPE
The south of Madagascar narrows to a wild cape which wraps around the tip of the island
from Itampolo to Fort Dauphin. The sense of isolation here is palpable, and grows the fur-
thersouthyougo,untilyoufinallyreachthecliffatCapSainteMarie,wherethereisnothing
between you and Antarctica. Then it's back to civilisation - sort of. After many hours driv-
ing through dense spiny forest and one-zebu towns, the trail ends on the doorstep of lonely
FortDauphin,acityisolated byhundredsofkilometres oftortuousroadwayinalldirections.
Itampolo to Fort Dauphin
Coming south from Itampolo you will need to drive through the Linta River (only possible
during the dry season) to Saodona, on the river's eastern bank. There is an arduous roadway
for about 85km to the northeast, where you join the RN10 at Ampanihy. Alternatively, check
locally to see if you can cross the Menarandra River further south and continue along the
coast to Lavanono.
AMPANIHY
POP 29,000
Ampanihy looks like it has suffered an air raid. The only reason to go here is to get gas and
fix a flat, although if you must stay, the Hotel Angora (d Ar15,000) is surprisingly hospit-
able. The road is particularly bad between here and Tranoroa to the east. If you are driving
straight to Fort Dauphin, it may be faster to turn northeast at Tranoroa towards Bekitro, then
head southeast to Antanimora on the RN13, which rejoins the RN10 at Ambovombe.
LAVANONO
One of our End-of-the-Earth picks ( Click here ) this secluded surfer paradise has some of
the best waves in Madagascar, and no reef to interfere with them. The best place to stay in
the area is the atmospheric Tea Longo ( 033 23 076 86; d bungalow without bathroom
Ar20,000) right on the beach. Run by the hard-working Eveline, it has some tidy shacks that
reverberate to the roar ofthe sea, and communal dining with fresh seafood and an interesting
assortment of guests, as you don't end up here without a decent story.
RÉSERVE SPÉCIALE DE CAP SAINTE MARIE
Madagascar's southernmost tip, Cap Sainte Marie is a thoughtful climax to the 'eighth con-
tinent', a stark and windswept place that feels like the end of the Earth as well. There is an
18-hectare reserve ( 032 40 934 03) here partly created to protect radiated and spider tor-
toises, which ends at some cliffs. The road to the park is lightly trafficked except by these
tortoises; you will need a local guide to find it. A small MNP office lets you know that you
have arrived. Here you'll need to pick up a park guide (Ar15,000). A further drive takes you
to the edge of the cliffs, where there is a lighthouse complex, a religious statue, and if you're
Search WWH ::




Custom Search