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throughout. The owners get an A+ for creativity everywhere, including an outdoor astro-
nomy bar that makes for an unforgettable desert night. With evening drink in hand, you use
a computer screen to zoom in on a chart of the galaxy, the adjacent tele-scope whirrs…and
there you are.
Isalo Rock Lodge LODGE €€€
( 22 328 60; www.isalorocklodge.com ; s/d/f incl breakfast €104/114/150; ) If you
prefer contemporary design, another magnificent option is this stylish hotel, with a beau-
tiful terrace overlooking sandstone formations, a spa and fitness room, a rare conference
room,andafluorescentpoolwithever-changingcolours.Therestaurantservesworksofart
(breakfast/lunch/dinner €6/14/16). There's a walking trail with a natural pool, and a steep
ascent to a viewpoint at the summit of a nearby formation. A sharp manager ensures per-
fection in-house, but the website needs an overhaul.
Chez Alice BUNGALOW €
( 032 04 042 22, 032 02 055 68; camping with tent Ar6000, paillotte Ar25,000, d/tr/q
bungalow Ar35,000/45,000/55,000) A rough drive in hides this convivial backpacker's
hangout and budget gem conveniently located near the centre of Ranohira. Run by the irre-
pressible Alice, who would otherwise be running an Old West saloon, there are bungalows
of various types and prices, with the paillottes being the best deal, even if they look like
termite mounds. The restaurant is a super place to hang out, and the food (mains Ar6500,
breakfast Ar5000) ain't bad either, partner. If you're ridin' the range, they'll pack a picnic
(Ar8000), too.
Jardin du Roy BOUTIQUE HOTEL €€€
( 22 351 65; www.lejardinduroy.com ; bungalow €100; ) This new property shares
amenities with the adjacent Relais de la Reine, and is owned by the same family of
hoteliers. They have put extraordinary work into creating unique stone bungalows, includ-
ing custom hand-crafted furniture, and all rooms are air-conditioned. Like its sister prop-
erty, it is situated within sandstone formations, but it's not as well placed; the lawn is vast,
and the buildings a touch heavy.
Isalo Ranch BUNGALOW €€
( 26 011 11; www.isalo-ranch.com ; d Ar87,000) While not presenting well from the
road, the sand pathways of this lodge tie its bungalows together into a welcoming little
village, aided by a shady and cosy restaurant with an international menu (set menus
Ar25,000).
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