Central Madagascar - Madagascar - page 117

(yes, it's that variable). Along the way you pass plantations, waterfalls and
green hills, cross 67 bridges and go through 48 tunnels, all the while dropping
steeply in elevation. Despite its antiquity and unreliability, the train is still an
economic lifeline for the people of the inland villages, who use it to transport
their cargoes of bananas and coffee to be sold and exported. Stopping at each
tiny station is a colourful experience, with Malagasy passengers leaning out of
the windows to haggle with hordes of vendors balancing baskets of bananas,
crayfish or fresh bread on their heads. For more details, Click here .
For the best views of the cliffs, misty valleys and waterfalls en route, sit on
the north side of the train (ie the left side when going from Fianarantsoa to
Manakara). However, the most impressive waterfall is on the right as you go to-
wards Manakara - just after Madporano, about two hours from Fianarantsoa.
Bring water, and, if you're making the journey in winter, plenty of warm clothes
- it's often freezing early in the morning, when some of the best views can be
hidden by fog. Food is available at stops along the way. Certain stops have no
road access, so if you get off you are waiting for the next train.
This fascinating journey takes an entire day, leaving you with two options at
the end. Many people stay over in Manakara and take a car back to Fianar in the
morning, resuming their journey down the RN7. A better option is to spend an-
other day in Manakara, as it has much to offer, including some excellent accom-
modation, the beach, and the Canal des Pangalanes ( Click here ) .
For a more detailed history of the railway and the regions through which it
passes, pick up a booklet called The FCE: A Traveler's Guide , by Karen
Schoonmaker Freudenberger. It's available in English and French for Ar6000 at
the station.
TOURS
Most hotels and tour operators in Fianar also organise excursions to Parc National de Ran-
omafana and the Sahambavy Tea Estate. Apart from the need for transportation, there is no
reason you couldn't do this yourself.
Maison des Guides WALKING TOUR
( 034 03 123 01, 032 02 728 97; [e-mail]; 8am-5pm) Smartly
located in an old railway car in front of the train station, this cooperative of local guides
is your best choice for arranging a local tour. They know everything about the region, and
specialise in treks to the picturesque Betsileo villages nearby. The guide Eugène ( 033
28 834 10; [e-mail]) speaks English.