Where to Stay - Tokyo - page 81

5

Where to Stay

Tokyo has no old, grand hotels in
the tradition of the Peninsula in Hong
Kong or the Raffles in Singapore; it has
hardly any old hotels, period. But what the
city's hotels may lack in quaintness or old
grandeur is more than made up for by
excellent service—for which the Japanese
are legendary—as well as cleanliness and
efficiency. Be prepared, however, for small
rooms. Space is at a premium in Tokyo, so
with the exception of some rooms in very
expensive hotels, rooms seem to come in
three sizes: minuscule, small, and barely
adequate.
Unfortunately, neither does Tokyo have
many first-class ryokan, or Japanese-style
inns. I suggest, therefore, that you wait for
your travels outside Tokyo (see chapter 11,
“Side Trips from Tokyo,” for recom-
mended excursions) to experience a first-
rate ryokan. Alternatively, most of Tokyo's
upper-bracket hotels offer at least a few
Japanese-style rooms, with tatami mats,
Japanese bathtubs (deeper and narrower
than the Western version), and futons.
Although these rooms tend to be expen-
sive, they're usually large enough for four
people. There are also inexpensive Japa-
nese-style inns in Tokyo. In fact, if you're
on a tight budget, a simple Japanese-style
inn is often the cheapest way to go.

On the other hand, if you're looking for
luxury, Tokyo certainly doesn't disappoint.
First-class Japanese hotels have always prided
themselves in providing the utmost in care
and service, and the recent infusion of for-
eign-owned luxury hotels, including The
Peninsula Tokyo, Mandarin Oriental, and
the Ritz-Carlton, has only upped the ante.
Other trends in the hotel industry
include a boom in business-oriented
hotels; among my favorites is the Tokyu
Stay chain, offering rooms complete with
kitchens and laundry machines and
reduced rates for guests staying longer
than a week. Thankfully, a growing num-
ber of hotels are also switching from paid
in-room Internet connections to free ser-
vice, though Wi-Fi is not as ubiquitous as
in the U.S. Nonsmoking floors are com-
mon in virtually all hotels except for some
of the inexpensive ones, particularly Japa-
nese-style inns. All hotels also have air-
conditioning (a must in Tokyo) and all but
the cheapest also have private bathrooms
(most with tub/shower combinations).
Finally, the recent economic downturn
has also affected Japan's hotels, which
translates into bargain rates once unheard
of. Whereas in the not-too-distant past
hotels adhered to their published rack
rates, today they are just as likely to offer
deals, especially on their websites.

1 BEST BETS FOR ACCOMMODATIONS

• Best Historic Japanese-Style Inn: Homeikan, 5-10-5 Hongo ( & 03/3811-1181 ),
consists of three historic buildings, one with a Japanese garden and very nice tatami
rooms. A great choice for those who don't mind roughing it a bit (there are no private
bathrooms), this is traditional Japanese living at inexpensive rates. See p. 116.
• Best for Business Travelers: Although not as centrally located as other hotels, the
Royal Park Hotel, 2-1-1 Nihombashi-Kakigara-cho ( & 800/457-4000 in the U.S.,