Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
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Kanda, with many stores specializing in
new and used books.
Asakusa (map on p. 109) Located in
the northeastern part of central Tokyo,
Asakusa and areas to its north served as
the pleasure quarters for old Edo. Even
older, however, is the famous Sensoji
Temple, one of Tokyo's top and oldest
attractions. Asakusa also has a wealth of
tiny shops selling traditional Japanese
crafts, most clustered along a pedestrian
street called Nakamise Dori that leads
straight to Sensoji Temple; the street's
atmosphere alone makes it one of the
most enjoyable places to shop for Japa-
nese souvenirs. About a 15-minute walk
west is Kappabashi-dougugai Dori,
lined with shops dealing in kitchen
appliances, plastic food, pots and pans,
and everything else needed to run a
restaurant. When Tokyoites talk about
shitamachi (old downtown), they are
referring to the traditional homes and
tiny narrow streets of the Asakusa and
Ueno areas.
Ueno (map on p. 117) Located just
west of Asakusa, on the northern edge
of the JR Yamanote Line loop, Ueno
retains some of the city's old shitamachi
atmosphere, especially at its spirited
Ameya Yokocho street market, which
began life as a black market after World
War II and is spread underneath the
Yamanote train tracks. Ueno is most
famous, however, for Ueno Park, a
huge green space comprising a zoo, a
concert hall, a temple, a shrine, and
several acclaimed museums, including
the Tokyo National Museum, which
houses the largest collection of Japanese
art and antiquities in the world. North
of Ueno is Yanaka, a delightful residen-
tial area of traditional old homes,
neighborhood shops, and temples; sev-
eral of Tokyo's most affordable Japa-
nese-style inns are located here.
Shinjuku (map on p. 94) Originating
as a post town in 1698 to serve the
needs of feudal lords and their retainers
traveling between Edo and the prov-
inces, Shinjuku was hardly touched by
the 1923 Great Kanto Earthquake,
making it an attractive alternative for
businesses wishing to relocate following
the widespread destruction. In 1971,
Japan's first skyscraper was erected here
with the opening of the Keio Plaza
Hotel in western Shinjuku, setting a
dramatic precedent for things to come.
Today more than a dozen skyscrapers,
including several hotels, dot the Shin-
juku skyline; and with the opening of
the Tokyo Metropolitan Government
Office (TMG) in 1991 (with a tourist
office and a great free observation
floor), Shinjuku's transformation into
the capital's upstart business district was
complete. Separating eastern and west-
ern Shinjuku is Shinjuku Station, the
nation's busiest commuter station,
located on the western end of the
Yamanote Line loop. Surrounding the
station is a bustling shopping district,
particularly the huge Takashimaya
Shinjuku complex and the many dis-
count electronics stores. Shinjuku is
also known for its nightlife, especially
in Kabuki-cho, one of Japan's most
famous—and naughtiest—amusement
centers; and in Shinjuku Ni-chome,
Tokyo's premier gay nightlife district.
An oasis in the middle of Shinjuku
madness is Shinjuku Gyoen Park, a
beautiful garden for strolling and with a
tranquil Japanese garden at its center.
Ikebukuro Located north of Shinjuku
on the Yamanote Line loop, Ikebukuro
is the working person's Tokyo, less
refined and a bit rougher around the
edges. Ikebukuro is where you'll find
Seibu and Tobu, two of the country's
largest department stores, as well as the
Japan Traditional Craft Center, with
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