Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
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that will arrange accommodations for you. Be aware, however, that if a place has a room
still open at the last minute in August, there's probably a reason for it—poor location,
poor service, or unimaginative decor.
Before you leave Tokyo, be sure to pick up the leaflet “The Izu Peninsula” at the Tour-
ist Information Center.
ATAMI
Atami
means “hot sea.” According to legend, once upon a time, local fishermen, con-
cerned about a geyser spewing forth into the sea and killing lots of fish and marine life,
asked a Buddhist monk to intervene on their behalf and to pray for a solution to the
problem. The prayers paid off when the geyser moved itself to the beach; not only was
the marine life spared, but Atami was also blessed with hot-spring water the townspeople
could henceforth bathe in. It's rumored that Tokugawa Ieyasu (1543-1616), Japan's most
famous shogun, was so enamored by the quality of Atami's hot-spring waters that he
ordered barrels of it delivered to his castle in Edo (present-day Tokyo).
Today, Atami—with a population of 40,000—is a conglomeration of hotels, ryokan,
restaurants, pachinko parlors, souvenir shops, and a sizable red-light district, spread
along narrow, winding streets that hug steep mountain slopes around Atami Bay.
Although I find the setting picturesque, the city itself isn't very interesting—in fact, its
economy is severely depressed, and because it has none of the fancy shops and nightlife
to attract a younger generation, mostly older Japanese vacation here, giving the town an
old-fashioned, unpretentious atmosphere. In any case, this is the most easily accessible
hot-spring seaside resort from Tokyo, and it has a wide beach flanked by a half-mile
boardwalk, a wonderful art museum, and several other attractions that make it popular
even on just a day trip.
Essentials
GETTING THERE
From Tokyo Station, it's 40 to 50 minutes by
Shinkansen bullet
train;
be sure to check the schedule beforehand, as the Hikari bullet train stops at Atami
only three times a day (though the slower Kodama bullet trains run more frequently).
The fare is ¥3,570 for an unreserved seat. You can also take the
JR Odoriko
or
Super
View
Odoriko,
which travels from Tokyo Station to Atami in 1 hour and 15 or 20
minutes, with the fare ranging from ¥3,190 to ¥4,270, depending on the train. Slower
is the local
JR Tokaido Line
for ¥1,890, which takes about 1 hour and 40 minutes.
VISITOR INFORMATION
The
Atami Tourist Information Office
(adjacent to a cof-
fee shop) is to the left as you exit the train station (
&
0557/81-5297;
daily 9am-
5:30pm; to 5pm Oct-Mar). No English is spoken, but English-language literature and a
map are available, including the very useful “Atami Walking Guide.” You'll also find
information on Atami online at www.atamispa.com.
GETTING AROUND
Buses serve major sightseeing attractions in Atami. If you're
spending the day here, you might wish to purchase a 1-day ticket for the
YuYu Bus,
which has two routes, both making circuitous trips through town and departing Atami
Station every 35 minutes. You can leave and reboard as often as you wish, or you can stay
on for a tour of the city. The cost is ¥800 for adults and ¥400 for children.
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Seeing the Sights
Atami's must-see is the
MOA Art Museum
, 26-2 Momoyama-cho (
&
0557/84-
2511;
www.moaart.or.jp), housed in a modern building atop a hill with sweeping views
