Side Trips from Tokyo - Tokyo - page 282

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3 MASHIKO

100km (62 miles) N of Tokyo
Mashiko is a small village known throughout Japan for its Mashiko-yaki, distinctive,
heavy, country-style pottery. A visit to Mashiko can be combined with an overnight trip
to Nikko (see earlier); both are not far from the town of Utsunomiya, north of Tokyo.
Because the major attraction in Mashiko is its pottery shops and kilns, there's little in the
way of restaurants and accommodations, so I suggest that you come here just for the day,
and return to Tokyo or travel on to Nikko before nightfall. Plan on spending about 3
hours in Mashiko, plus several hours for transportation.
Mashiko's history as a pottery town began in 1853, when a potter discovered ideal
conditions in the nearby mountain clay and red pine wood for firing. It wasn't until
1930, however, that Mashiko gained national fame, when the late Hamada Shoji, desig-
nated a “Living National Treasure,” built a kiln here and introduced Mashiko-ware
throughout Japan. Other potters have since taken up his technique, producing ceramics
for everyday use, including plates, cups, vases, and tableware. There are about 50 pottery
shops in Mashiko (along with about 300 kilns) where you can browse and watch craft-
speople at work. Pottery fairs, held twice a year in late April/early May and late October/
early November, attract visitors from throughout Japan.
ESSENTIALS
Getting There
You must first take a train from Tokyo to Utsunomiya; transfer there for a bus to
Mashiko.
BY TRAIN The fastest but most expensive way to reach Utsunomiya is aboard the
Tohoku Shinkansen, which departs from Tokyo Station and Ueno every 20 to 40 min-
utes and arrives in Utsunomiya approximately 55 minutes later; the one-way fare is
¥4,290 for an unreserved seat. Otherwise, take the JR Utsunomiya (also called the
Tohoku Honsen) rapid train from Shinjuku, Shibuya, or Ueno Station, which departs
approximately every hour and takes 90-some minutes to reach Utsunomiya JR station
(¥1,890 one-way). If you're stopping off in Mashiko on your way to Nikko, note that
only JR trains (not the Tobu Line) travel between Utsunomiya and Nikko (see “Nikko,”
earlier).
BY BUS Upon reaching Utsunomiya JR station, take the west exit to the bus terminal
just outside the station. Buses operated by the Toya Bus company ( & 028/662-1080 )
depart from platform no. 14 approximately every hour, taking about 1 hour to reach
Mashiko and costing ¥1,100 one-way. Alight at the Sankokanmae bus stop.
VISITOR INFORMATION There's a tourist information counter at JR Utsunomiya
station ( & 028/636-2177 ), open daily 8:30am to 8pm, where you can obtain informa-
tion on buses heading to Mashiko. In Mashiko, the tourist information office is incon-
veniently located at the tiny Mashiko train station, open daily 8:30am to 5:30pm
( & 0285/70-1120 ).
WHAT TO SEE & DO
Once you alight from the bus at the Sankokanmae stop, turn left at the stoplight
just ahead for the Mashiko Reference Collection Museum, also called : Mashiko
Sankokan ( & 0285/72-5300 ), a compound of several thatch-roofed farmhouses and

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