Side Trips from Tokyo - Tokyo - page 279

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enclosed in a small vermilion-colored wooden structure. According to legend, it used to
come alive at night and sweep around Nikko in the form of a ghost. It apparently scared
one guard so much that he struck it with his sword 70 times; the marks are still visible
on the lamp's rim. Entrance to the miniature shrines and ghost lantern is ¥200 extra.
TAIYUIN MAUSOLEUM Past Futarasan Shrine is Taiyuin Mausoleum
( & 0288/53-1567 ), the final resting place of Iemitsu, the third Tokugawa shogun (look
for his statue). Completed in 1653, it's not nearly as large as Toshogu Shrine, but it's
ornate and serenely elegant nevertheless. To show respect for the first shogun, Taiyuin's
buildings face Toshogu Shrine. Tourists usually bypass this shrine, making it a pleasant
last stop on your tour of Nikko Sannai.
NIKKO TAMOZAWA IMPERIAL VILLA TAMOZAWA GOYOUTEI KINEN KOEN
If you haven't seen the Imperial villas of Kyoto (which require advance planning), this
villa, at 8-27 Honcho ( & 0288/53-6767 ), is a great alternative. Although it's not as old,
having been built in 1899 for Prince Yoshihito (who later became the Taisho emperor)
and recently painstakingly restored so that it looks brand new, it has the distinction of
being the largest wooden Imperial villa of its era, with 106 rooms, 37 of which are open
to the public. In addition, the central core of the villa is actually much older, constructed
in 1632 by a feudal lord and brought to Nikko from Edo (present-day Tokyo). Alto-
gether, three emperors and three princes used the villa between 1899 and 1947. A self-
guided tour of the villa provides insight into traditional Japanese architectural
methods—from its 11 layers of paper-plastered walls to its nail-less wood framing—as
well as the lifestyle of Japan's aristocracy. Be sure to wander the small, outdoor garden.
Admission is ¥500 for adults, half-price for children. Open Wednesday to Monday 9am
to 4:30pm. It's about a 20-minute walk from Toshogu Shrine, or take the bus to the
Tamozawa stop.
WHERE TO STAY
If it's peak season (Golden Week, Aug, or Oct) or a weekend, it's best to reserve a room
in advance, which you can do by calling a lodging either directly or through a travel
agency in Tokyo. Off-peak, you can make a reservation upon arrival at Nikko Tobu Sta-
tion, either at the tourist information counter or at the accommodations-reservation
window ( & 0288/54-0864; Mon-Fri 9am-5pm, Sat-Sun and holidays 8:25am-
5:55pm), both of which are familiar with the area accommodations and will make all
arrangements for you. Note that the charge for booking a room at either of these facilities
is ¥100 per person.
Moderate
Nikko Kanaya Hotel Founded in 1873, this distinguished-looking place
on a hill above the Sacred Bridge is the most famous hotel in Nikko, combining the
rustic heartiness of a European country lodge with elements of old Japan. The present
complex, built in spurts over the past 137 years, has a rambling, delightfully old-fash-
ioned atmosphere that fuses Western architecture with Japanese craftsmanship. Through
the decades it has played host to a number of VIPs, from Charles Lindbergh to Indira
Gandhi to Shirley MacLaine; Frank Lloyd Wright left a sketch for the bar fireplace,
which was later built to his design. Even if you don't stay here, you might want to drop
by for lunch (see review below). Pathways lead to the Daiyagawa River and several short
hiking trails. All rooms are Western-style twins, with the differences in price based on
room size, view (river view is best), and facilities. Some 10 rooms have been updated, but

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