Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
252
The best thing to do in Shinjuku is simply wander. In the glow of neon light, you'll
pass everything from smoke-filled restaurants to touts trying to get you to step inside so
they can part you from your money. If you're looking for strip joints, topless or bottom-
less coffee shops, peep shows, porn, or prostitutes, I leave you to your own devices, but
you certainly won't have any problems finding them. Be careful, however, of hidden
charges, such as exorbitant drink prices, or you may end up spending more than you
bargained for.
A word of warning for women traveling alone: Forgo the experience of strolling
around Kabuki-cho. The streets are crowded and therefore relatively safe, but you may
not feel comfortable with so many inebriated men stumbling around. If there are two of
you, however, go for it. I took my mother to Kabuki-cho for a spin around the neon, and
we escaped relatively unscathed. You're also fine walking alone to any of my recom-
mended restaurants.
ROPPONGI To Tokyo's younger crowd, Roppongi is the city's most fashionable place
to hang out. It's also a favorite with the foreign community, including models, business
types, English teachers, and tourists staying in Roppongi's posh hotels. Roppongi has
more than its fair share of live-music houses, restaurants, discos, expatriate bars, and
pubs. Some Tokyoites complain that Roppongi is too crowded, too crass, and too com-
mercialized (and has too many foreigners). However, for the casual visitor, Roppongi
offers an excellent opportunity to see what's new and hot in the capital city and is easy
to navigate because nightlife activity is so concentrated. There is one huge caveat, how-
ever: Roppongi's concentration of foreigners has also attracted the unscrupulous, with
reports of spiked drinks causing patrons to pass out, only to awaken hours later to find
their credit cards missing or fraudulently charged for huge amounts. In other words,
never leave your drinks unattended, and you're best off following the buddy system.
The center of Roppongi is Roppongi Crossing (the intersection of Roppongi Dori
and Gaien-Higashi Dori), at the corner of which sits the Almond Coffee Shop (under
renovation until Dec 2010). The shop has mediocre coffee and desserts at inflated prices,
but the sidewalk in front is the number-one meeting spot in Roppongi.
If you need directions, there's a conveniently located koban (police box) catty-corner
from the Almond Coffee Shop and next to a bank. It has a big outdoor map of the Rop-
pongi area showing the address system, and someone is always there to help. The “Night-
life & Where to Stay & Dine in Roppongi” map on p. 159 will help you locate the
Roppongi clubs and bars mentioned in this chapter.
If the buzz of Roppongi is too much, a quieter, saner alternative is neighboring Nishi
Azabu, which has restaurants and bars catering to Japanese and foreigners alike. The
center of Nishi Azabu is the next big crossroads, Nishi-Azabu Crossing (the intersection
of Roppongi Dori and Gaien-Nishi Dori). Nishi Azabu is about a 10-minute walk from
Roppongi Station, past Roppongi Hills in the direction of Shibuya. Roppongi Hills is a
massive urban development with many restaurants and some bars of its own, while the
newest kid on the block, Tokyo Midtown, has brought gentrification—and an influx of
affluent customers—to Roppongi's nightlife.
OTHER HOT SPOTS Not quite as sophisticated as Ginza or nearly as popular as Rop-
pongi, Akasaka nonetheless has its share of hostess bars, both Western and Japanese-style
pubs, restaurants, and inexpensive holes-in-the-wall. Popular with executive tycoons and
ordinary office workers, as well as foreigners staying in one of Akasaka's many hotels, this
district stretches from the Akasaka-mitsuke subway station along three narrow streets,
called Hitotsugi, Misuji, and Tamachi, all the way to the Akasaka Station. There are also
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