Shopping - Tokyo - page 243

W Kyugetsu Asakusabashi is Tokyo's wholesale district for retailers of dolls, with
several stores lining Edo Dori. This is one of the area's biggest stores, founded in 1830.
It sells both modern and traditional dolls; its Japanese dolls range from elegant creatures
with porcelain faces, delicate coiffures, and silk kimono, to wooden dolls called kokeshi.
Hours are Monday to Friday 9:15am to 6pm, Saturday and Sunday 9:15am to 6pm.
Closed several days following Children's Day and in mid-August. 1-20-4 Yanagibashi,
Taito-ku. & 03/5687-5176. Station: Asakusabashi (1 min.). In front of the station.
Kyukyodo Founded in 1633 in Kyoto, this Tokyo branch of the famous incense shop
also sells stationery, cards, sheets of Japanese paper, calligraphy brushes, and paper prod-
ucts such as boxes and trays. Open Monday to Saturday 10am to 7:30pm, Sunday and
holidays 11am to 7pm. 5-7-4 Ginza, Chuo-ku. & 03/3571-4429. Station: Ginza. Near Ginza 4-
chome Crossing, on the right side of Chuo St. in the direction of Shimbashi.
Oriental Bazaar If you have time for only one souvenir shop in Tokyo, this should
be it. This is the city's best-known and largest souvenir/crafts store, selling products at
reasonable prices and offering four floors of souvenir and gift items, including cotton
yukata, kimono (new and used), woodblock prints, paper products, fans, chopsticks,
Imari chinaware, sake sets, Japanese dolls, pearls, books on Japan, and a large selection of
antique furniture. This store will also ship things home for you. Open Friday to Wednes-
day 10am to 7pm. 5-9-13 Jingumae, Shibuya-ku. & 03/3400-3933. Station: Meiji-Jingumae (3
min.), Harajuku (4 min.), or Omotesando (5 min.). On Omotesando Dori in Harajuku; look for an
Asian-looking facade of orange and green.
X Sukeroku This tiny, truly unique shop sells handmade figures of tradi-
tional Japanese characters, from mythological figures to priests, farmers, entertainers, and
animals. Included are people of the many castes of the Edo Period, ranging from peasants
to feudal lords. Most figures are in the ¥3,000-to-¥5,000 price range, though some are
much higher than that. Open daily 10am to 6pm. Nakamise Dori, Asakusa. & 03/3844-0577.
Station: Asakusa (3 min.). It's the next-to-last shop on the right as you walk from Kaminarimon
Gate toward Sensoji Temple.
Tsutaya Tsutaya has everything you might need for ikebana (flower arranging) or the
Japanese tea ceremony, including vases of unusual shapes and sizes, scissors, and tea
whisks. Open daily 10am to 6:30pm. Closed the first, fourth, and fifth Sunday and last
Saturday of each month. 5-10-5 Minami-Aoyama, Minato-ku. & 03/3400-3815. Station:
Omotesando (2 min.). On Kotto Dori, near the Kua' Aina hamburger joint.
Y Yamamoto Soroban Ten When I first came to Japan more than 25 years ago,
I often saw older Japanese using an abacus in a shop or restaurant. No longer. Although
this shop has been in business for over 65 years and is now in its third generation of
owners, I wonder how long it will survive in the world of computers and calculators (only
two Japanese towns still produce the abacus, and Japanese children no longer learn how
to use them in school). The founder's granddaughter speaks English and will explain how
an abacus works. Open Friday to Wednesday 10am to 5pm (holidays 11am-6pm).
Closed the third Wednesday of every month. 2-35-12 Asakusa, Taito-ku. & 03/3841-7503.
Station: Asakusa (5 min.). 1 block east of Sensoji Temple's main building, on Umamichi Dori
(also spelled Umamiti); look for the giant abacus outside the front door.
Yonoya This unique shop sells its own handmade boxwood combs, crafted by a sev-
enth-generation comb maker. Its history stretches back 300 years, to a time when
women's hairstyles were elaborate and complicated, as many woodblock prints testify.

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