Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
223
Japan by a missionary in the 16th century,
and in typical Japanese fashion was quickly
modified to suit local needs. Rather than
measuring 24 hours a day, Edo clocks were
based on the length of time between sun-
rise and sunset, so that time varied greatly
with the seasons. Clocks had to be set once
or twice a day and were so expensive that
only
daimyo,
or feudal lords, could afford
them. Most daimyo had both a clock-
maker and clock setter under their employ,
as castles generally contained several huge
clocks on their grounds. Apparently, time
was of the essence in Japan even back then.
Explanations in the museum are in Japa-
nese only, but ask to see an English-lan-
guage pamphlet. Admission is ¥100. It's
open Tuesday to Sunday 10am to 4pm
(closed Dec 25-Jan 15 and July-Sept;
&
03/3821-6913
).
Take a right out of the museum to return to the
street you were on, turn left and then left again
(note the weirdly shaped pine tree at the corner).
Walk down one of the many slopes for which Yanaka
is famous and which still has some traditional
wooden homes (including a beautiful one on your
right). On the left-hand side of the slope, at the end
of the street just before the stoplight, is Imojin
Owariya, a Japanese sweet shop (see “Winding
Down,” below). Cross the busy street, Shinobazu-Dori,
at the stoplight and continue straight (you'll pass
another sento to your left). The road will begin to
slope upward, and then, to your right, will be:
^
Nezu Shrine
This is one of Tokyo's best-kept secrets.
With its brightly colored orange
torii,
venerable cedars, and manicured azalea
bushes, it's a welcome contrast to the aus-
terity of the Buddhist temples that domi-
nate Yanaka. It was built in 1706 by the
fifth Tokugawa shogun and features a
front courtyard gate of red lacquer with
joists in gilt, green, blue, orange, and
black. The shrine is most well known,
however, for its thousands of manicured
azalea bushes. When they bloom in April,
this place is heaven—but be prepared for
crowds.
To reach Nezu Station, return to Shinobazu-Dori and
turn right.
WINDING DOWN
On the slope upward from Shi-
nobazu-Dori, in the direction of
the clock museum, is
O
Imojin
Owar-
iya,
2-30-4 Nezu (
&
03/3821-5530
), a
plain, tiny Japanese version of a small-
town ice-cream parlor. You can get home-
made ice cream here, as well as shaved ice
with flavorings of sweet-bean paste,
lemon, strawberry, or melon. It's open
Tuesday through Sunday from 11am to
7pm. On Shinobazu-Dori, between Nezu
Shrine and Nezu Station, there's
Cafe ez
Fran,
2-27-1 Nezu (
&
03/3828-5511
).
Open Tuesday to Sunday 11:30am to
11pm (1am Fri and Sat), it's a coffee shop
until 6pm, after which it becomes a bar
specializing in beers from around the
world.
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