Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
220
A Note on Japanese Symbols
Many hotels, restaurants, attractions, and shops in Japan do not have signs giv-
ing their names in Roman (English-language) letters. Chapter 14 lists the Japa-
nese symbols for all such places described in this guide. Each set of characters
representing an establishment name has a corresponding number in chapter 14,
which appears inside the oval preceding the establishment's name in the text.
Thus, to find the Japanese symbol for, say,
Sandara,
refer to no. 54 on p. 325.
Take a right at the police box and continue through
the cemetery to a residential street, following it 1
block until it ends at a T-intersection. Ahead is a
plaque dedicated to Kano Hogai (1828-88), a Japa-
nese painter of the early Meiji Period who incorpo-
rated Western techniques into his work and who,
along with Okakura Tenshin, is credited for “modern-
izing” Japanese art. Behind the plaque is:
4
Choanji Temple
Established in 1669, it was dedicated to
the god of longevity, one of Japan's seven
lucky gods. During the Edo Period, a pil-
grimage to all seven temples, each housing
one of the seven gods of fortune, was
thought to bring good luck. Now that
such pilgrimages have lost their appeal,
Choanji seems rather forgotten. In addi-
tion to Kano's tomb, located near the
center of the temple's graveyard, the tem-
ple is notable for its three stone
stupas
dating from the 1200s, erected for the
repose of departed souls. They are straight
ahead on the main path, by the statues and
under the groomed cedars.
Turn left out of Choanji. At the next immediate left
down a side street you'll see an old temple wall dat-
ing from the Edo Period. It's the only one in the area
to have survived fires, earthquakes, and wars. Back
on the main road, farther along on the left, is:
5
Kannonji Temple
A small stone pagoda to the right of its
front entrance is dedicated to the 47
ronin
(akoroshi),
masterless samurai who avenged
their master's death and then committed
ritual suicide in 1702 (see the box in chap-
ter 3, “The Masterless Samurai”). Their
story captured the public's imagination
and has become a popular Kabuki play.
Two of the ronin were brothers of a head
priest here, and several meetings plotting
their revenge allegedly took place on this
spot.
TAKE A BREAK
Just a stone's throw farther
north, on the right, is
Osteria
Yanaka no Tramonto,
7-17-11 Yanaka
(
&
03/6383-1621
), a simple Italian res-
taurant offering pasta lunches for ¥1,200
from noon to 2:30pm (closed Wed). Far-
ther along, to the left at the top of the
steps to Yanaka Ginza (no. 9 below), is
Zakuro,
3-14-13 Nishi-Nippori
(
&
03/5685-5313
), one of Tokyo's more
eccentric restaurants serving Turkish,
Pakistani, and Persian cuisine and open
daily 11am to 11pm. After removing your
shoes at the door (and donning proffered
Mideastern garb if you wish), you'll be led
to floor cushions in a big room that
resembles a tent, with boards on the floor
serving as tables. Set lunches include an
all-you-can eat meal for ¥1,000 (last order
3pm). Evenings feature belly dancing and
an all-you-can-eat feast for ¥2,000.
8
Just past Yanaka no Tramonto, also on the right at
7-18-6 Yanaka, is:
6
H
Sandara
This small crafts shop sells pottery, bas-
kets, and other crafts. It's open Tuesday
through Sunday from 10:30am to 6pm.
Its name comes from the sacks once used
to hold rice.
Past this shop, also on the right, at 7-18-10 Yanaka,
is the:
