Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
213
pleasures, head to
Berry Café,
5-10-19
Minami-Aoyama (
&
03/5774-7130
), on
the left side of Aoyama Dori in the direc-
tion of Shibuya. Its berry-topped cakes
have to be seen to be believed; even its
plastic-food displays look good enough
to eat. It's open Monday to Saturday 11am
to 9pm and Sunday 11am to 8pm.
WINDING DOWN
Between Comme des Garçons
and Yohji Yamamoto is
Yo k u
Moku,
easy to find at 5-3-3 Minami-
Aoyama (
&
03/5485-3330
), with its
bright blue exterior and terrace. Open
daily from 10am to 6:30pm, it's famous for
its pastries and desserts. For more sinful
WALKING TOUR 3
UENO
START:
South end of Ueno Park (station: Ueno)
FINISH:
Ameya Yokocho flea market, along the tracks of the Yamanote Line (station: Ueno or
Okachimachi)
TIME:
Allow approximately 2 hours, not including stops along the way
BEST TIMES:
Weekdays, when museums and shops aren't as crowded
WORST TIMES:
Monday, when the museums and zoo are closed
Located on the northeast end of the Yamanote Line loop, Ueno is one of the most
popular places in Tokyo for Japanese families on a day's outing. Unlike sophisticated
Ginza, Ueno has always been favored by the working people of Tokyo and visitors from
Tokyo's rural north. During the Edo Period, the area around Ueno was where merchants
and craftspeople lived, worked, and played. Ueno was also the site of the enormous
Kan'eiji Temple compound, which served as the private family temple and burial ground
of the Tokugawa shoguns. Today, Ueno's main drawing card is Ueno Park, the largest
park in Tokyo. It's famous throughout Japan for its cluster of historic monuments, zoo,
and excellent museums, including the prestigious Tokyo National Museum. If you wish,
time your visit to coincide with free, 90-minute walking tours of Ueno every Wednesday,
Friday, and Sunday at 10:30am and 1:30pm. Tours depart from Ueno Green Salon,
located between JR Ueno Station and the National Museum of Western Art (see no. 5
below for its location).
8
You will probably arrive in Ueno by either subway or
the JR Yamanote Line. Regardless, following the
signs, make your way via underground passage to
the main entrance of Keisei Ueno Station (terminus
of the Skyliner train from Narita Airport and home to
a Tokyo Tourist Information Center; daily 9:30am-
6:30pm). Outside Keisei Ueno Station's main exit, to
the left, are two steep flights of stone stairs leading
up to an area of trees. This is the south entrance to:
1
Ueno Park
Located atop a broad hill, this was once
part of the precincts of Kan'eiji Temple, a
huge, 120-hectare (297-acre) complex
consisting of a main temple and 36 subsid-
iary temples. Unfortunately, most of the
complex was destroyed in 1868, when
2,000 die-hard shogun loyalists gathered
on Ueno Hill for a last stand against the
advancing forces of the Imperial army. In
1873, Ueno Park opened as one of the
nation's first public parks.
Although quite small compared to New
York City's Central Park, this is Japan's
largest city park and Tokyo's most impor-
tant museum district, making it a favorite
destination for families and school groups
in search of culture, relaxation, and fun.
With its 1,000 cherry trees, it's one of the
most famous spots for cherry-blossom
