Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
10
Impressions
The Japanese are in general intelligent and provident, free and unconstrained, obedi-
ent and courteous, curious and inquisitive, industrious and ingenious, frugal and
sober, cleanly, good-natured and friendly, upright and just, trusty and honest, mis-
trustful, superstitious, proud, and haughty, unforgiving, brave, and invincible.
—Charles Peter Thunberg,
Travels in Europe, Africa, and Asia
(1795)
All my friends living in Tokyo, both Japa-
nese and foreign, have had to tighten their
belts, whether it's because their annual
bonuses have been drastically cut or
because income from clients—who are
also having financial difficulties—has
dried up. In other words, the economic
crisis isn't much different in Japan than
elsewhere; it's just been going on much
longer.
Yet oddly, more museums and other
highly visible buildings are undergoing
major renovations in Tokyo right now than
almost any year I can think of, including
the Kabuki-za and the Central Post Office
(I find it encouraging that a proposed
demolition of the post office building,
built in 1931, caused such a furor that as
much as 30% of the old building will be
preserved). Although some of my favorite
restaurants and hotels have closed as vic-
tims of the economy, new ones have
sprung up to take their place. In other
words, it's business as usual in Tokyo,
though bargains abound in these troubled
times, whether it's for goods, hotel rooms,
or a meal. One of the most favorable results
of the recession is Japan's growing desire to
attract foreign visitors, with more English-
language brochures, websites, and user-
friendly services than ever before. Tobu,
which operates train service to Nikko,
introduced a train pass strictly for foreign-
ers. There's also a new dedicated tourist bus
that makes a circular route to Tokyo's
major sightseeing districts, such as Ueno
and Asakusa, making it easier to move
around the metropolis.
One of the most fascinating changes in
Tokyo over the past few years, in my opin-
ion, is the explosion of personal expres-
sion, making it a mecca for seekers of cool,
edgy design. Long gone are the same drab
office clothes and nonquestioning confor-
mity. Tokyo today is a kaleidoscope of
various fashions, from hip street clothing
to a wide range of personal styles that
reflect a wide spectrum of international
influences. The
otaku
(geek) culture has
come out of the closet and into the main-
stream, bringing with it such a newfound
interest in anime (Japanese animation)
and
manga
(Japanese graphic novels) that
Akihabara is no longer a mecca just for
buyers of electronics but also for those in
search of pop culture. Tokyo's Design
Festa, held twice a year, is one of the most
exuberant art events you'll find anywhere,
drawing more than 8,500 artists from
more than 30 countries.
In many ways, Tokyo is more interest-
ing and diverse now than it ever was. With
the DPJ at the helm, and its promise to
shift the country's emphasis from a busi-
ness-oriented society to one that is more
people-oriented, it will be very interesting
to see what's coming down the road.
For the short-term visitor to Tokyo,
however, problems that loom in the public
psyche—economic uncertainty, a revolv-
ing door of prime ministers, political
scandal, and rising crime—are not readily
apparent (unless you go to Ueno or Yoyogi
parks, where the number of homeless is
nothing short of astounding). Crime,
though undeniably on the increase over
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