Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
207
The Floating World of Yoshiwara
During the Edo Period (1603-1867), prostitution in Japan was not only allowed,
it was—along with everything else in feudal Japan—regulated and strictly
controlled by the Tokugawa shogunate. Licensed quarters arose in various
parts of Edo (now Tokyo), but none was as famous or as long-standing as
Yoshiwara,
the “floating world of pleasure.” Opened in 1657 in the midst of rice
fields, far outside the city gates upriver from Asakusa, Yoshiwara rose to such
prominence that, at its height, as many as 3,000 prostitutes, referred to as
“courtesans,” worked their trade here. The services they rendered depended on
how much their customers were willing to spend. Some men, so they say,
stayed for days. Stories abound of how more than a few lost their entire for-
tunes.
The top-ranked courtesan, known as Tayu, was distinguished by her gor-
geous costume, which often weighed as much as 40 pounds and included a
huge
obi
(sash) knotted in front. Many of the courtesans, however, had been
sold into prostitution as young girls. To prevent their escape, a moat sur-
rounded Yoshiwara, which could be entered or exited only through a guarded
gate. The courtesans were allowed out of the compound once a year, during an
autumn festival. Such virtual imprisonment was abolished only in 1900. Yoshi-
wara itself was closed down in 1957, when prostitution became illegal.
8
Before reaching the end of Nakamise Dori, there are
a couple interesting side streets worth exploring.
Just 2 blocks north of Kaminarimon Gate are:
6
Two covered shopping arcades
Stretching both to the right and left of
Nakamise Dori, these pedestrian-only cov-
ered lanes are typical of what you'll see
everywhere in Japan—regular streets that
became instant shopping centers by cover-
ing them with roofs and banning vehicular
traffic. This is where the locals shop, with
stores selling clothing, household goods,
souvenirs, and more.
Farther along Nakamise Dori, to the left, is Demboin
Dori (you'll pass some interesting shops selling
antiques here). In just a minute's walk, you'll see a
small red gate on your right, leading to:
7
Chingodo Shrine
Dedicated to Chingodo, the so-called rac-
coon dog and guardian against fires and
burglars, it affords a view of part of a gar-
den through a fence. This garden is:
8
Demboin Garden
This peaceful oasis in the midst of bustling
Asakusa was designed in the 17th century
by Enshu Kobori, a tea-ceremony master
and famous landscape gardener who also
designed a garden for the shogun's castle.
Alas, it used to be open to the public, but
no longer, so you'll have to content your-
self with a glimpse of it here.
Return to Nakamise Dori and resume your walk north
to the second gate, which opens onto a square filled
with pigeons and a large:
9
Incense burner
This is where worshippers “wash” them-
selves to ward off or help cure illness. If,
for example, you have a sore throat, be
sure to rub some of the smoke over your
throat for good measure.
