Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
186
Other well-known landmarks in Ueno Park are Toshogu Shrine, erected in 1651 and
dedicated to Tokugawa Ieyasu, founder of the Tokugawa shogunate; and Kiyomizu
Kannon-do Temple, completed in 1631 as a much smaller copy of the famous Kiyomizu
Kannon-do Temple in Kyoto (see “Shrines & Temples,” below). Ueno Park is also a
popular refuge for Tokyo's homeless.
For more information on Ueno Park, see the walking tour of Ueno in chapter 8.
Taito-ku. Free admission to the park; separate admissions to each of its attractions. Daily 24 hr. Station:
Ueno (1 min.). Tokyo Shitamachi Bus: Ueno Koen Yamashita/Ueno Station.
4 SHRINES & TEMPLES
In addition to the temples and shrines listed here, don't forget Sensoji Temple and Meiji
Jingu Shrine (see “The Top Attractions,” earlier).
Kiyomizu Kannon-do Temple Established in 1631 and moved to its present site
overlooking Shinobazu Pond in 1698, this small but important structure is a copy of the
famous Kiyomizu Temple in Kyoto (but on a much less grand scale). It was once part of
the Kan'eiji Temple precincts that covered Ueno Hill during the Edo Period. Remarkably,
the temple survived both the 1868 battle between Imperial and shogunate forces and
bombings during World War II. Today, it's one of Tokyo's oldest temples. It enshrines
Kosodate Kannon, protectress of childbearing and child-raising; women hoping to
become pregnant come here to ask for the goddess's mercy, and those whose wishes have
been fulfilled return to pray for their child's good health and protection. Many leave
behind dolls as symbols of their children. Once a year, on September 25, a requiem
service is held for all the dolls at the temple, after which they are cremated.
Ueno Park, Taito-ku. & 03/3821-4749. Free admission. Daily 7am-5pm. Station: Ueno (3 min.). Tokyo
Shitamachi Bus: Ueno Koen Yamashita/Ueno Station.
Toshogu Shrine Come here to pay respects to the man who made Edo (present-
day Tokyo) the seat of his government and thus elevated the small village to the most
important city in the country. Erected in 1651, it's dedicated to Tokugawa Ieyasu,
founder of the Tokugawa shogunate. Like Toshogu Shrine in Nikko, it was built by
Ieyasu's grandson, Iemitsu, and boasts some of the same richly carved, ornate design
favored by the Tokugawas, especially the Chinese-style gate. Remarkably, it survived the
civil war of 1868, the Great Kanto Earthquake of 1923, and even World War II. The
pathway to the shrine is lined with massive stone lanterns, as well as 50 copper lanterns
donated by daimyo from all over Japan. The shrine, closed, unfortunately, for renovation
until 2014, contains some exquisite art, including murals by a famous Edo artist, Kano
Tan-yu, and clothing and samurai armor worn by Ieyasu. At the counter to the left you
can buy good-luck charms that will supposedly bring you fortune, happiness, and other
earthly desires. On a more somber note, a flame on shrine grounds, lit from flames burn-
ing in both Hiroshima and Nagasaki, appeals for world peace.
Ueno Park, Taito-ku. & 03/3822-3455. Free admission. Daily 9am-sunset (about 6pm in summer,
4:30pm in winter). Station: Ueno (4 min.). Tokyo Shitamachi Bus: Ueno Koen Yamashita/Ueno Station.
Yasukuni Shrine Built in 1869 to commemorate Japanese war dead, Yasukuni
Shrine is constructed in classic Shinto style, with a huge steel torii gate at its entrance.
During times of war, soldiers were told that if they died fighting for their country, their
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