Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
182
about anything you might need at the bathhouse—soap, shampoo, towels, even under-
wear. Keep in mind, however, that people bearing tattoos are sometimes prohibited from
entering public and hot-spring baths, as tattoos are associated with the Japanese mafia. If
your tattoo is discreet, however, or you're using a public bath in, say, a hotel, you prob-
ably won't experience any problems.
For a unique bathing experience, nothing beats a 3- or 4-hour respite at the
Ooedo-
Onsen Monogatari,
2-57 Aomi on Odaiba (
&
03/5500-1126;
www.ooedoonsen.jp;
station: Telecom Center Station, 2 min.), which tapped mineral-rich hot-spring waters
1,380m (4,528 ft.) below ground to supply this re-created Edo-era bathhouse village.
After changing into a
yukata
(cotton kimono) and depositing your belongings in a locker
(your key is bar-coded, so there's no need to carry any money), you'll stroll past souvenir
shops and restaurants on your way to massage rooms, sand baths (extra fee charged), and
onsen
(hot-spring baths) complete with outdoor baths, Jacuzzi, steam baths, foot baths,
and saunas. Because as many as 6,500 bathers pour into this facility on weekends, try to
come on a weekday. Also, signs in English are virtually nonexistent, so observe gender
before entering bathing areas (a hint: women's baths usually have pink or red curtains,
men's have blue). Open daily 11am to 9am the next day. Admission is ¥2,900 for adults
and ¥1,600 for children 4 to 11, with reduced prices after 6pm.
Not quite as colorful is the upscale
Spa LaQua,
1-1-1 Kasuga (
&
03/3817-4173;
www.laqua.jp; station: Kasuga, 2 min.), located in the heart of Tokyo at Korakuen's
Tokyo Dome City complex. It, too, has hot-spring indoor/outdoor baths, saunas, and
massage options, but an adjoining amusement park with roller coasters (and screaming
passengers) makes this a less relaxing alternative. It's open daily 11am to 9am the next
day, with admission priced at ¥2,565, with higher fees weekends, holidays, and after
midnight. Note that this is considered an adult facility; children under 6 are not allowed,
and no minors under 18 are allowed after 6pm.
ZAZEN
A few temples in the Tokyo vicinity occasionally offer sitting meditation with
instruction in English. You should call in advance to make a reservation and arrive 30
minutes early for instructions. The
Toshoji International Zen Center,
4-5-18 Yutaka-
machi, Shinagawa-ku (
&
03/3781-4235;
station: Togoshikoen, 5 min.), offers free
zazen at 5am every morning (except Sun and holidays), as well as Zen training meetings
Saturday from 6 to 8pm, including zazen, a lecture, and tea. Accommodations are also
available to those who wish to stay for longer periods to practice Zen.
Sounin Temple,
4-1-12 Higashi-Ueno, Taito-ku (
&
03/3844-3711;
station: Ueno, 5 min.), holds zazen
the second Sunday and Monday (and preceding Sat) from 7 to 8pm, followed by a talk
and tea.
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PARKS & GARDENS
Although Japan's most famous gardens are not in Tokyo, most of the places listed below
use principles of Japanese landscaping and give visitors at least an idea of the scope and
style of these gardens. More information on parks and gardens is available at www.tokyo-
park.or.jp.
East Garden (Higashi Gyoen)
The 21 hectares (52 acres) of the formal
Higashi Gyoen—once the main grounds of Edo Castle and located next to the Imperial
Palace—are a wonderful respite in the middle of the city. Yet surprisingly, this garden
is hardly ever crowded (except when cherry trees, azaleas, and other blossoms are in