Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
178
objects from around 2000 b.c.
Note:
The Toyokan is closed for renovation until 2012.
Until its reopening, selections from the collection are on display at the
Hyokeikan,
built
on the museum grounds in 1909 to commemorate the marriage of Emperor Taisho.
The
Heiseikan Gallery
is where you'll find archaeological relics of ancient Japan,
including pottery and Haniwa clay burial figurines of the Jomon Period (10,000 b.c.-
1000 b.c.) and ornamental, keyhole-shaped tombs from the Yayoi Period (400 b.c.-a.d.
200). The
Gallery of Horyuji Treasures
(Horyuji Homotsukan)
displays priceless Bud-
dhist treasures from the Horyuji Temple in Nara, founded by Prince Shotoku in a.d.
607. Although the building's stark modernity (designed by Taniguchi Yoshio, who also
designed the expansion of the New York Museum of Modern Art) seems odd for an
exhibition of antiquities, the gallery's low lighting and simple architecture lend dramatic
effect to the museum's priceless collection of bronze Buddhist statues, ceremonial Gigaku
masks used in ritual dances, lacquerware, and paintings.
Ueno Park, Taito-ku.
&
03/3822-1111.
www.tnm.jp. Admission ¥600 adults, ¥400 college students, free
for seniors and for children. Special exhibits cost more. Tues-Sun 9:30am-5pm (enter by 4:30pm; Apr-
Dec till 8pm Fri during special exhibitions; Apr-Sept till 6pm Sat-Sun and holidays). Closed Dec 28-Jan
1. Station: Ueno (10 min.). Tokyo Shitamachi Bus: Ueno Koen Yamashita/Ueno Station.
Tsukiji Fish Market
This huge wholesale fish market—the largest in Japan
and one of the largest in the world—is a must for anyone who has never seen such a
market in action. The action here starts early: At about 3am, boats begin arriving from
the seas around Japan, from Africa, and even from America, with enough fish to satisfy
the demands of a nation where seafood reigns supreme. To give you some idea of its
enormity, this market handles almost all the seafood—about 450 kinds of seafood—con-
sumed in Tokyo. The king is tuna, huge and frozen, unloaded from the docks, laid out
on the ground, and numbered. Wholesalers walk up and down the rows, jotting down
the numbers of the best-looking tuna, and by 5:30am, the tuna auctions are well under-
way. The entire auction of sea products takes place from about 4:40 to 6:30am, with
auctions of vegetables at a corner of the market starting at 6:30am. The wholesalers then
transfer what they've bought to their own stalls in the market, subsequently selling fish
and produce to their regular customers, usually retail stores and restaurants.
Although I used to be able to arrive before dawn and visit the entire market freely, an
increasing number of tourists over the years has prompted authorities to close tuna auc-
tions to visitors, except for a small viewing area open 5-6:15am (get there before 5am
and expect to wait in line). Otherwise, I think it's just as fun to the visit the wholesale
market area, held in a cavernous, hangarlike building, which means you can visit it even
on a dismal rainy morning. There's a lot going on—men in black rubber boots rushing
wheelbarrows and forklifts through the aisles, hawkers shouting, knives chopping and
slicing. Wander the aisles and you'll see things you never dreamed were edible. This is a
good place to bring your camera, but note that no flash photography of auctions or the
market is allowed. Also, the floors are wet, so leave your fancy shoes at the hotel. Finally,
be mindful of the many forklifts and carts, and please don't touch the fish.
Tsukiji is also a good place to come if you want sushi for breakfast. Alongside the
covered market are rows of barracklike buildings divided into sushi restaurants and shops
related to the fish trade. In addition, in between the market and Tsukiji Station is the
Outer Market
(Jogai),
a delightful district of tiny retail shops and stalls where you can
buy the freshest seafood in town, plus dried fish and fish products, seaweed, vegetables,
knives, and other cooking utensils.
Warning:
While walking through the Outer Market,
my Japanese friend and I were warned several times by local shopkeepers to watch our
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