Where to Dine - Tokyo - page 134

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ful of tiny yakitori stands, each with a few tables and chairs, which cater to a rather
boisterous working-class clientele, mainly men. The atmosphere, unsophisticated and
dingy, hearkens back to prewar Japan, somewhat of an anomaly in the otherwise chic
Ginza. Stalls are open from about 5pm to midnight Monday to Saturday.
Andy's Shin-Hinomoto VARIED JAPANESE Occupying its own arch
underneath the Yamanote tracks, this Japanese-style pub is owned by Andy, a Brit, who
buys all his seafood and vegetables fresh daily at Tsukiji Market. The upstairs is the place
to be, with its arched ceiling and mixed foreign and Japanese crowd. If you don't have
reservations, you'll be shunted into the less ambient downstairs, where you'll feel like a
refugee in a fallout shelter as you sit elbow-to-elbow with local office workers at long
tables under fluorescent lighting. Sashimi, grilled fish, tempura, sautéed vegetables, deep-
fried chicken, tofu, salad, and much more are offered on the English-language menu.
2-4-4 Yurakucho. & 03/3214-8021. Reservations strongly recommended. Main dishes ¥500-¥1,600.
No credit cards. Mon-Sat 5pm-midnight. Station: Yurakucho or Ginza (1 min.). Underneath the Yamanote
elevated tracks, across from the Yurakucho Denki Building.

8 Fukusuke SUSHI In this basement full of cheap restaurants, called Ginza Palmy
(look for the outdoor sign saying “Mosaic”), walk all the way to the back (away from
Harumi Dori). There are two branches here; the one to the right offers cheaper lunches,
starting at ¥945, that include soup, sushi, Japanese pickles and tea, while the one at the
right has lunches beginning at ¥1,365. Both are popular with area office workers, so try
to avoid the noontime rush. Otherwise, their all-day set meals are the same.
Ginza Toshiba Building B2, 5-2-1 Ginza. & 03/3573-0471. Sushi a la carte ¥126-¥630; set dinners
¥1,575-¥4,725; set lunches ¥945-¥3,675. AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 11:30am-9:30pm (last order). Station: Ginza
or Hibiya (4 min.). In the 2nd basement on Sotobori Dori, at Sukiyabashi Crossing.

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Itamae Sushi SUSHI This user-friendly sushi restaurant is a natural for both novices
and more experienced fans of raw fish. Order a la carte for your favorites, or stick to one
of the set meals if you don't know much about sushi. A signboard outside shows pictures
and prices for individual sushi, while plastic models show various sets available. Two
counters give everyone a ringside seat.
8-2-13 Ginza. & 03/3571-9970. Sushi a la carte ¥98-¥398; set meals ¥1,050-¥2,980. AE, DC, MC, V. Daily
11:30am-2:30pm; Mon-Fri 5pm-4am; Sat-Sun 5-11pm. Closed some holidays. Station: Shimbashi (1
min.) or Hibiya (5 min.). Across from the elevated hwy.
La Boheme ITALIAN The food is passable, but what sets La Boheme apart is that it's
open every day until 5am, making it a good bet for a late-night meal. I also like its huge,
open kitchen in the middle of the room, surrounded by a U-shaped counter that provides
a ringside view of the action. The pasta ranges from spaghetti with eggplant and tomato
sauce to spaghetti Bolognese, along with Japanese-style versions such as steamed breast
of chicken with Japanese baby leek, spinach, and sesame oil.
You'll find other La Boheme restaurants at many popular spots around Tokyo, includ-
ing the Ginza at 1-2-3 Ginza ( & 03/5524-3616; station: Ginza); in Aoyama at 7-11-4
Minami Aoyama ( & 03/3499-3377; station: Omotesando), 6-2-2 Minami Aoyama
( & 03/6418-4242; station: Omotesando), and 3-6-25 Kita-Aoyama ( & 03/5766-
1666; station: Gaienmae); in Harajuku at 5-8-5 Jingumae ( & 03/5467-5666l; station:
Meiji-Jingumae); in Roppongi at 4-11-13 Roppongi ( & 03/3478-0222; station: Rop-
pongi); in Nishi Azabu at 2-25-18 Nishi Azabu ( & 03/3407-1363; station: Roppongi);
in Shibuya at 1-6-8 Jinnan ( & 03/3477-0481; station: Shibuya); and on the fourth